Monthly Archives: July 2011

Photography in Buenos Aires

graffiti

Buenos Aires is truly urban in all sense of the term. An international capital with a variety of cultural capital seeping out of in every nook and cranny of the city, making this city the it destination for the artistic community. Photographers and photography students looking to dabble in photo courses flood here because of the notably distinct mix of culture found in Buenos Aires: a beautiful balance of European and Latin American culture, activists and art, conservatives and liberals, which turns the city streets into every photographer’s playground.

Street art: Buenos Aires is known to be the political graffiti capital of the world. It is impossible to walk down any street and see walls, sidewalks, dumpsters, even street signs unmarked, left colorless. But the graffiti culture here is respected as something much more than marking territory – it is also viewed as a thriving street art scene, making every saunter down the road much like a free gallery tour. It began in the 1950s mostly as a form of political expression particularly during a moment of political censorship, but at this time a more aesthetic form of graffiti began to come about. During the dictatorship, street art virtually disappeared but came back gradually in the 90s, and particularly in the year 2001 directly after the financial crises, the streets were suddenly bursting with art of all sorts. The importance of documenting this ephemeral impermanent art has been getting increasingly more attention, and the photography opportunities are endless! You’ll get to hear the full story of the street art movement on the buenos aire graffiti tour, one of  our free cultural activities for study abroad buenos aires students.

Protests: Protests, marches, demonstrations, are a common day occurrence in the city. For a student or intern in Buenos Aires interested in politics or civic action, Buenos Aires is a goldmine of public demonstrations and expression. But these protests are an incredible opportunity to document some of the more charged emotions, anger, excitement, passion, dedication. The protests make for an automatic storyline, and give photographers a chance to record the more pressing issues porteños and argentines face every day while capturing a huge section of their culture. Photographers find this public political culture the best opportunity for the budding photography student!

 

Architecture: The historic city of Buenos Aires still wears much of its history on it’s most outer layer. The architecture noticed in the buildings is a constant mix of old and new, redone or renovated, Italian, French, portugues, Latin American, decorative, functional, and everything in between. The older buildings that catch the photographers eye come from the cities beginnings and early population growth dating back often to the 1880s and early 1900s. During this time, Buenos Aires was one of the richest, most popular, fasting growing cities in the world. It still sports the original architectural design and immigration history. To see some of the iconic areas, photographers like to stroll down the streets of San Telmo or Av. Alvear, through sections of la Boca and historic preservation districts like parts of Caballito. Check out this article and video to find out more about the history. But because of this urban mix and historical overcoat the Buenos Aires wears, it catches the photography students mind and eye.

Fashion: Unlike a lot of urban centers, Buenos Aires residents and visitors alike parade through the streets in a bold pool of color, shape, and design. Down with the grey flannel suit they yell, enough with the black peacoat! All of us study abroad-ers here have had the experience at one point or another, after a long enough stay. We walk into a store, pick up an article of clothing that would never catch ones attention back home, or only would to make a joke about it, and take it to the counter to ring it up. I remember the first time vividly, looking at the store clerk and asking him what he thought, and he simply smiled and told me in soft Spanish what would loosely translate as, “honey, this is Buenos Aires, anything flies.”  Buenos Aires fashion is noticeable and shows a huge part of the city that photographers can’t ignore: the people. They sport their outfits with pride, and being such a dynamic city brings out an equally if not more dynamic look. Check out some staples that you’ll notice in street fashion from BsAs!


 

 

Mente on Malbec: un blog de-vino

miami-wine-tasting

Budding wine connoisseurs of all (legal) ages start from the jumping off point of that well known adage, drink and be merry. Argentina has increasingly been getting more attention for its wine production, both in quantity and quality over the past years. This is why tourists, wine lovers, and the wine interested have started flocking to its thriving Capital, to take wine and sommelier courses in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, some of us have yet to get the chance to learn all about the world of wines, and so until we can enroll in a class of our own, we will have to start with the basics and work our way up:

According to Wine for Dummies, an admittedly guilty position i have taken, Argentina is the largest producer of wines in South America and 5th largest in the world. And what comes out of the country is even more impressive. Like the immigration history of the Argentine population, most of the grape-producing vines have come over from Italy and taken and impressive strong root in the wine-making country of Argentina. Provinces such as Mendoza, Salta, and Jujuy are the pride of argentine wines and have attracted many visits by travelers and study abroad students in Argentina! Both the wine culture and the landscape there is beautiful and calming: Being near the mountains but still in a desert area keeps the vineyards warm by day and cool by night, and the ground is dry by nearby rivers from the Andes allow for easy irrigation.

Compared to its neighboring competitor Chile, what really sets Argentine wines apart is its main grape: Malbec. The Malbec grape was originally only used for blending with Merlots and Tannat to make them darker and more full bodied; it is now a celebrated varietal wine (meaning a wine made only from one grape) in Argentina. It has particularly adapted to the Mendoza region and winemakers are toying with getting the same quality. Another great argentine wine is their Cabernet Sauvignon, but many wine professionals agree that sheer production of the argentine Malbec, and it’s rareness as a quality variety has defined argentine wines.

A little info on the Malbec: The Malbec grape is only successfully produced in Argentina and Cahors, a small wine region in southwest france. Originally from Bordeaux, many theories trace its origin, one (popular but unconfirmed) says that a Hungarian peasant by the name Malbec spread the variety throughout France, others trace it back to northern Burgundy under the original name Côt. In Argentina, Malbec wines have been thriving for over 100 years.

Certain qualities jump out with Malbec wine. It is a very full bodied wine, very dark and with a strong concentration of flavors. The skin varies based on climate; in cooler conditions it produces a thick skin that raises acidity and tannins making it a more robust wine, and lower altitudes that have hotter climates lends to a thinner skin grape, more juice and lighter-bodied wines that are meant to be drunk young.

The flavors that often jump out are those of

Dark fruits:

  • Plums
  • Cherries
  • Raspberries
  • Currants

Spices: come from the liberal oaking process

  • Vanilla
  • Anise or licorice
  • Tobacco

It can be difficult to get to know a specific type of wine, or to find a wine you love! If you’re looking for a reasonably priced Argentine wine, this blogger’s wine recommendation would have to be a bottle of the Latitud 33 Malbec which can be found all over Buenos Aires But, as all classes, teachers, wine lovers and professionals will tell you, the only way to get to know a wine is to taste it! So in that spirit, read all you like, but you study abroad students know that one of the best ways to meet Argentina is to reap the fruits of its bounty, err… something like that. For those of you on your way to Argentina, tell us what you think and know about the Malbec in a comment! And for those mente study abroad students in Buenos Aires, whether or not you’re on our Wine Program, use this information to brush up before our upcoming wine tasting next week which you’ll hear more about in an email! Los requisitos son que ¡disfruten y que hablen castellano durante toda la degustación! Below are some handy wine terms in spanish so you can impress the group with your conocimientos del vino. ¡Que rico!

aterciopelado: used to describe older wines that have lost its roughness through tanins and has given it a smooth, pleasant flavor

abierto: used to describe a wine that has a clear color that allows much light to pass through

(vino) blanco: white wine

bodega: winery and wine cellar

botella: bottle

brillante: a characteristic of young wines that give them a strong shine and a clean or fresh taste/look

cata: wine course or professional tasting where the group examines the characteristics of the wine via look (vista), smell (olfato) and taste (gusto)

(vino) común: used to describe a wine that has no varietal specification

cubierto: used to describe a wine that has a dark, opaque color that doesnt allow light to pass through

cuerpo: body of the wine, describing the fullness or lightness of the wine when tasted.

decantar: decant. Gradually pour the wine from the bottle to another container to separate the liquid from the sediments at the bottom and expose the wine to air to bring out the flavors

degustación: wine tasting

enología: enology, the science and study of wine-making

fermentación: fermentation, the process that transforms must into wine by changing the sugars into alcohol

hollejo: skin of the grapes

lágrimas: literally translated as tears, in English wine terms known as the legs of the wine. When the wine is swirled in the glass, the legs refer to the droplets that slide down the side of the glass. The fuller bodied the wine, the longer it takes the droplets to descend. Often said in wine tastings, “this wine as great legs!” which unfortunately is not as sexy sounding when describing las lágrimas.

ligero: light, used to describe a wine that has a weak body, lack of flavor

maceración: softening/soaking, process of keeping the skins of the grapes in the must to give the wine stronger color and aroma

madura/maduración: mature. used to describe a developed wine/process of allowing the grapes to reach their optimal moment of growth

(vino de) mesa: table wine used to accompany foods, lower in quality and price

mosto: must, the juice from the grapes before it goes through the fermentation process

notas (de…): notes of or hints of, used to describe the tastes, usually subtler, found in the wine

paladar: the palate of the mouth, where most flavors of the wine hit.

postgusto: also known as retrogusto, it is used to describe the taste that lingers in the mouth after drinking a wine

redondo: said to describe a full bodied wine

(vino) rosado: a rosé wine, pink in color, made of red wine grapes but less red and with a different flavor because the skins are taken out before the fermentation process

sabroso: a taste defined by the variety of flavors and characteristics that make a smooth and tasty wine

tánico: used to describe a wine with a flavor defined by a high level of tannins

taninos: tanins, which exist in grape skins, sedes, stems, and even the barrels used to age the wine. Drawing the tannins out it dependent on the winemaking process involved. Tannins are marked by astringency (think of that sense of dryness or almost grittiness lets on the tongue) and bitterness. It is often maintained that tannins get less noticeable with age.

(vino) tinto: red wine

trasiego: a process of moving the wine around to decant and oxygenize it.

uva: grape

varietal: varietal, used to describe a wine made out of one particular variety of grape

vino: wine

viñedo: vineyard

vid: grape vine

vinicultura: viniculture, wine production and wine growing

vinificación: everything related to the wine making process

Rachel Sherman

Dulce de Leche: how to satisfy your sweet tooth in Argentina

Homemade Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche is the cure-all medication for all times of the day for all you study abroad students and travelers in Buenos Aires, and simply cannot be missed! It is hidden in your morning facturas (pastries), found in the kioscos in the middle of your alfajores, even added to your ice creams, coffees, and to be eaten by the spoonful. Those in our Mente Argentina cooking course have experienced the secret to making that delicious dulce! If your friends or family want a gift from your study abroad experience in Buenos Aires, DDL (dulce de leche) is the ultimate gift to bring on home, an authentic Argentine treat! Here is the 411 on dulce de leche, what it is, where to find it, and how it’s made:

What: Dulce de Leche is a type of caramel, a sticky and sweet Argentine specialty that seems to go in and on just about every breakfast, snack and dessert.  Pastries of all shapes and sizes, especially croissants, known as medialunas, are filled with dulce de leche. Every grocery store has at least half an aisle devoted solely to dulce de leche. Right up there with cafe and carne, dulce de leche is an Argentine essential. Spread it on bread, fruit, crepes and just about anything else you can think of!

There are different accounts of how dulce de leche was first made, but the most popular myth (according to Argentineans) seems to be that dulce de leche originated in Argentina in 1829 in Cañuelas, a city in the province of Buenos Aires. The full story can be found here, but our cliffsnotes goes as such: Nearing the end of a war, General Lavalle cane exhausted the General Manuel de Rosas campsite, and finding that Rosas was not there, he took a nap in his tent. Meanwhile, a serving woman was preparing la lechada by heating milk and sugar for the camp, and finding the enemy in the tent, ran off to tell soldiers, forgetting about la lechada cooking on the stovetop. The overcooked lechada had truned brown and jelly-like. The say a brave yet very hungry soldier tried the “ruined” batch of lechada, and as we all know, it must have been a big hit!

Where: DDL in both cookies and cream

Alfajores: Alfajores are a particular kind of argentine cookie,  another quintessential Argentine treat, as evidenced by endless array of varieties  and impassioned discussions about them. Find them in a kiosco or learn how to make them in your Argentine cooking course in Buenos Aires

The alfajor (pronounced: alfa-hor) is actually a traditional Arabic confection, still called by its original name alajú in some regions of Spain. The sweet originated in the Middle East and made its way to Spain and was finally brought to South America by Spanish colonists. The basic components of a Middle Eastern alfajor are flour, honey, almonds, sugar and spices like cinnamon and cloves.

Alfajores can be found all over the world in Spain, Argentina, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Uruguay, Mexico and southern Brazil, but recipes and styles vary widely according to country, and region. Thus, even though the Argentine alfajor originated from the Middle Eastern alfajor, the availability of ingredients and differences in traditions and flavor preferences have resulted in a very different confection.

Alfajores in Argentina begin with soft cookies of a cake-like consistency. The most simple and traditional alfajor is composed of two cookies with dulce de leche in the middle,  finished off by rolling the edges in finely shredded coconut. From there the seemingly endless variations begin.

Some alfajores are composed of 3 or 4 cookies to create a layering effect and a thicker, taller alfajor. Some are filled not only with dulce de leche, but also chocolate. Some are sprinkled with powdered sugar or dipped, bañado, in chocolate- white, milk or dark. Some alfajores are drizzled with icing, some are rolled in nuts like chopped walnuts or almonds, and some are topped or filled with a sweetened peanut butter paste called mantecol. Some have a little bit of raspberry jam inside of the top cookie, called alfajores ojitos. Some are made with chocolate cookies instead of the more traditional plain cookies which are like sugar/shortbread cookies. The astounding variety makes buying an alfajor a tough decision even at kioskos, small convenience shops where they are short on space, but never on the variety of different brands and variations of alfajores.

There is always great debate about which brand of alfajores is the best, it is often narrowed it down between  Havanna and El Cachafaz where there seems to be a current gridlock. Regardless, there is a seemingly infinite number of different brands and varieties of alfajores that each brand produces so it is impossible to say which is best. But I can say with certainty that the best way to form an opinion is to start sampling!

Helado: The dulce de leche ice cream is always a favorite. For those of you looking to kick back after your internship in Buenos Aires, the heladerías (ice cream shops) in the city such as Freddo and Volta are known to be among the best. To help you navegate the different varieties of dulce de leche helado, let Mente Argentina give you a quick break down:

  • DDL con almendras: dulce de leche ice cream with crushed almonds
  • DDL granizado: dulce de leche ice cream with chocolate bits
  • DDL con frutas secas y nueces: dulce de leche ice cream with nuts and dried fruit, my personal favorite!
  • Banana Split: Banna ice cream (made with real banana!) with Dulce de leche and chocolate bits
  • Tramontana: dulce de leche ice cream and chocolate cookie

For a full evaluation on the best place to find some icecream, check out this article from the LA Times travel section!

Dulce de Leche Professionals: When in a city where Dulce de Leche is found around every corner, it’s hard to narrow down who is truely the best, but our suggestions are La Salamandra, a dulce de leche and mozzarela cafe (delcious both seperate and together, try their mozzarella and dulce de leche desert!), and Havanna, known to have some of the best and most popular alfajores, and

How: Lastly, and maybe most importantly, if you want to make your own dulce de leche, it is simple enough if you have the time and energy! Lost of our Mente study abroad students go through the common dulce-withdrawl process, since nothing can quite replace this agentine specialty! Many people say its like making caramel, which is only partially true. Dulce de leche is made by heating sweetened milk over a stove top, and can be flavored with vanilla, cinamon (canela in spanish), chocolate, or kept as is for the original flavor.

These reciepes you can learn during your argentine culinary courses in buenos aires, while you’re here, and each cocinero has their own secret. But if you’d like to give it a try before coming to argentina, here are two different recipes, one using whole milk and one through the combination of condensed and evaporated milk, which should save you some time!

So you study abroad students, invite over your friends for a dinner party and showcase your cooking skills, pop by your local kiosco and grab some delicious snack filled with the typical dulce dessert, or hit up some local dulce de leche cafes that specialize in the dulce, because it’s not the be missed!

Caitlin McCoy

Edited: Rachel Sherman

Study Abroad City Guide: Public Transportation in Buenos Aires

colectivos buenos aires

Getting around the city is an experience in and of itself. While studying abroad in Buenos Aires, you’ll find you learn just as much through your day-to-day travels as you do in your courses – spanish courses teaching you the phrases you need to navigate the city streets (“permiso” “¿bajás acá?” ¿dónde está la parada 68?), DJ courses introducing you to tunes playing from the kioskos and out of car windows,  cooking courses showing you how to make those tasty empanadas and chorizo that you smell as you saunter down the andenes (sidewalks). As many travelers know, one of the best ways to get to know a city as diverse as Buenos Aires is to meet it through the angle of the cotidano, the day-to-day, the public transit.

The city of Buenos Aires extends 202 square kilometers, divided into 48 different neighborhoods (barrios in spanish) with about 13 million people inhabiting this incredible bustling city. Being a business and trade capital of South America, the public transportation that you use to get from your mente argentina apartment or argentine homestay to your internship in the city is also used by the locals, young and old, people living in the city and out in  la provincia, tourists and travelers all year long! Here is a little Mente Argentine break down on how to get around Buenos Aires:

Subte (Subway): The Buenos Aires subway system has 6 lines, differentiated by color and number. Lines E (purple) and A(light blue) run down the southern end of the city, lines B (red) and D (green) on the northern, and the C (dark blue) and the new line H (yellow) run perpendicular and serve as connections In between lines as well. All the lines converge in the very center of the city, around Corrientes and 9 de Julio or near Plaza de Mayo where the casa rosada (president’s house) is located. As Mente Argentine study abroad participants, you will mostly be using the B and D lines that run down Corrientes and Santa Fe, going through the center of the city as well as Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano, Abasto, Once, Villa Crespo, Micro Centro, all some of the most interesting and popular neighborhoods in the city!

  • Fun Fact: The A (light blue) line is the original subway line opened in 1913 making it the first subway system in all of latin america and the southern hemisphere. The subway cars are older, made of wood and have hanging latern-style lights, the doors still open manually, and the trim on the walls in the stops are marked with different colors so that during rush hour it is easier to see when to get off. If you havent yet ridden the A line, go take a trip to Caballito or Carabobo just to get the original subte experience!

Colectivo (Bus): The bus system in Buenos Aires can seem quite complicated at first, but after a week of getting used to, it is one of the truest porteño experiences you can have! Finally memorizing one of two bus lines can be quite the accomplishment. There are over 135 working bus lines going not only through every neighborhood in the city, but also taking you to several cities in the Buenos Aires province. The bus has to be flagged down when waiting at the bus stop, and you have to tell the driver how much you want for your fare (general 1.20). Before riding the buses, or even leaving the apartment, you should always have you Guia “T” handy, a transportation savior for the student/intern in Buenos Aires. The Guia T is a booklet that shows every neighborhood and every street in Gran Buenos Aires, zoomed in for a neat map view, and divided into pages and quadrants. But the most important part of the Guia “T” is that each quadrant marks which bus lines pass through that square. When you find a bus line that works for you, you look up the streets it runs down in the back, and see where you will have to get off. It sounds complicated, but don’t worry: you will find a Guia “T“waiting for you in our Mente Argentina welcome pack and a happy Mente Argentina coordinator waiting there to explain it to you in more detail. If you happen to lose your Guia “T” they can be purchased at any newspaper stand in the city for about 10 A$R.

  • Fun Fact: The bus system used to work on commission for the bus drivers but it became a dangerously competitive system, and the buses stopped being efficient as well as safe. Drivers would choose not to stop when it wasn’t worth it for the number of passengers they could pick up, and would drive more recklessly. As a solution to these issues, it was changed into a privatized system, meaning individual bus companies own individual bus lines. Because of this, the buses only accept coins, although some are starting to use a city-wide monedero public transit card.  Remember, you should ALWAYS have coins (monedas in spanish) on you to take the bus, and bus rides usually cost abour 1.20 A$R

Trenes Urbanos (Urban Trains): The trains are used mostly by those living out in the province of Buenos Aires, only about 40 minutes to an hour away from the city. But the train is an incredibly easy and cheap way for commuters and travelers to get in an out of the city. There are also long distance trains that can take you to cities outside of the province, to great cities like Córdoba, Tucumán, Rosario and many more. There are a number of different urban trains, but they aren’t used as frequently as the busses or subway. One common trip however is the train to Tigre, a city outside of Capital Federal based on the river, that is often considered a nature escape to the porteños. You will get the train experience and a taste of tigre on our Tigre Excursion included in the program, but if that’s not enough, hop on the train from Barrio Chino (Chinatown) or Retiro for a day trip out of the city!

Extra – Taxis: Taxis in Buenos Aires, like in any big city, can be run through a recognized taxi company or not. Both locals and us here at the Mente Argentina study abroad office stress the use of company taxis, marked as Radio Taxis on the doors or taxi light on top. The Radio Taxi sign simply shows that said taxi is associated with a company that you could call and access, which makes it a safer ride. Though most taxis are painted yellow and black and say taxi on them, not all are radio taxis, and are not as safe as a bet.

  • Fun Fact: Companies and frequent travelers also use Remises which are similar to taxis but are run through a car service. They have a fixed rate and only work when prearranged so it is a very secure form of travel. When coming in to Buenos Aires to study, you will see our Remis or Taxi waiting to pick you up and take you straight to your house

It’s notable that almost everyone in the  city, rich and poor, old and young, locals and foreigners, all use the busses and subways in this city. Don’t worry if it seems difficult at first, any new system takes some getting accustomed to. But, to get a fuller experience, the public transit is something you can’t miss. Whether it’s by overhearing bizzare conversations in crowded areas, bonding with the locals while waiting in line, watching performers and musicians  (whom i endearingly call enterTRAINers) play on the subte, travel around this city is half of the study abroad Buenos Aires experience. Now that your accustomed to the public transit by ear, go ahead and give it a try by foot!

Rachel Sherman

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