Category Archives: castellano

Mente’s Inside Information for an Amazing Semester Abroad!

March 07, 2012   MenteArgentina   No comments
obelisco

So you’ve just signed up for a Semester abroad in Buenos Aires. Now what? Here at Mente we are experts on study abroad and we are going to share our knowledge on the must-knows, must-dos and must-sees of studying abroad in Argentina.

First off, the must-knows about going abroad. Before you leave it is important to do some research on basic things such as the climate, history, and little cultural anecdotes which will make your transition that much easier upon arrival. One such anecdote here in Buenos Aires is the use of vos and the pronunciation of ‘ll’ and ‘y’. I’m not going to lie, I studied Spanish for years before setting foot in Argentina, and I did not understand anything when I got here. What the is maawshow? (Mayo, for those you who also aren’t familiar with el castellano porteño).
In terms of Argentine history, it is interesting and extensive with periods of greatness followed by long periods of pure devastation. Argentines tend to be very strong individuals who have lived through difficult times but still maintain a positive outlook. They are some of the most generous people in the world and are always willing to help their neighbor. The difficult times here have definitely bred a strong sense of community, which is evident throughout the country.
Finally, the climate. This is super important because here in Argentina we are in the Southern Hemisphere, meaning the seasons are the exact opposite of those in the US and Europe. We have a relatively mild winter from June to September, an absolutely beautiful spring in October, November and December. Then in January and February it is HOT. Hot and humid, which is precisely the reason most porteños ditch the city and head to the beach! This scorching summer is followed by a pleasant fall with varied temperatures and scattered thunderstorms. Knowing what months (or maybe you will be staying the whole year) you will be here is vital to your packing. A friend of mine who studied abroad TWICE during undergrad said, “study abroad is all about what to pack”. It might seem trivial, but you will undoubtedly be a couple of weeks into your trip and wish you had brought that shirt, those shoes, even that jar of peanut butter that you thought would take up too much space in your suitcase. Trust me, they don’t know how to do peanut butter here. Also, you will most likely be on a budget which won’t allow for purchasing overpriced goods here in Buenos Aires, so just pack it if you even for one second think you will want it.

Must-dos. Buenos Aires is FULL of must-dos, so I’m just going to lay out some basics but I recommend doing some research and making a local friend! The very first thing you must do is learn the buses. This is going to make your life so much easier for the next 6 months. Mente provides you with a Guia-T and we recommend that you take it with your everywhere. In addition to your Guia-T learn check out Mapa2, it is a fabulous website which tells you exactly how to get from point A to point B. In your first few weeks I recommend hopping on a bus and seeing it’s route, then going home another way. Once you have been on the buses a couple of times you will be a natural and it will save you tons of money on taxi fare!
The nightlife in Buenos Aires is quite possibly the most important must-do. Especially if you are coming from the States where bars close up at 2am, you will probably be a little overwhelmed at the beginning. Here porteños don’t even get to the clubs until around 3am (which is why it’s pretty easy to get on a list for free entrance before 2:30!!). One club that cannot be missed is Club 69 at Niceto Vega on Thursday nights. This place puts on a wild drag show complete with the costumes and over-the-top dancers who even leave stage and dance among the crowds. Plan on leaving the club and being blinded by the sun coming up over Buenos Aires.
Another must-do in the city is the parks. Buenos Aires has tons of great parks to spend your Sundays afternoons in, including Bosques de Palermo (which is huge and has lots of great trails and ‘lakes’), the Reserva Ecólogica right along the coast, and several smaller parks scattered throughout the city. Each one is unique, but you always find Argentineans sipping mate passing the day away chatting with friends. On really nice days there are even bands who set up and rock all afternoon.
Finally, you must try the culinary delights of Argentina. Everyone knows that meat is king here, and it is for a very good reason. You have to try parrilla and go to an asado (with locals preferably) during your stay! One well-known restaurant parrilla, Siga La Vaca, has all you can eat parrilla, dessert and wine for about $100 pesos. Go! Really, go. Porteños also know how to do ice cream which is the perfect treat during the sweltering summers in the city. Check out Mente’s previous blog on the yummy helado in Buenos Aires.

Must-see Buenos Aires is kind of general, because everything is a must-see. Just walking through Palermo is a must-see. The Recoleta cemetery is a must-MUST-see; luckily Mente Argentina has a great tour to take you through this fascinating burial ground. Of course you have to go to a Tango show where you will feel like you have been taken back several decades to a simpler time when passion and movement ruled this city. And if you want to practice your own tango skills, sign up for Mente’s Tango program!
There are several monuments, buildings and sites that are worth seeing in Buenos Aires including La Casa Rosada, La Boca and the Women’s Bridge in Puerto Madero. Besides all of these great spots, you should also go to a Boca Juniors soccer match. It isn’t just a soccer game, it’s an experience. From buying the tickets, getting to La Bombanera (the stadium), to all of the chanting and dancing of the dedicated fans. It is an experience not to be missed during your stay.
Outside of the city limits you will find several other great areas to check out. Taking the Tren de la Costa from Olivos to Tigre is amazing, it goes right along the costa and you get a spectacular view of the city. You can hop off and on the train as you wish, so definitely make a stop in Barrancas to check out the antiques and super hip bars in the area. Just a couple of blocks away you can go right to the coast and try out kitesurfing. The next stop, San Isidro, is also worth a look. It has a great little plaza with an incredible cathedral. All-in-all it’s great way to spend a day outside of the city.

So there you have it. Some advice on the things to keep in mind while preparing for travel and while you are here in beautiful Buenos Aires.

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Mente and Spanglish: The Perfect Activity to Practice your Spanish

January 25, 2012   MenteArgentina   No comments
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A great way to practice your Spanish while studying abroad or volunteering here in Buenos Aires is to go to Spanglish!! Spanglish was designed for foreigners to practice their Spanish skills while giving porteños the opportunity to practice English. Not only is it a language exchange, but it’s also a cultural exchange. You can learn about Argentine culture from an Argentine, and also share your cultural anecdotes.
Here at Mente Argentina we believe that cultural immersion is the most important part of your trip abroad and participating in activities that facilitate this immersion will only make your experience here that much more meaningful, which is why we have added Spanglish night to our monthly activities.
How it works: people arrive and there is a 45 minute check in. This gives you the opportunity to chat with everyone and maybe grab a drink at the bar. You are given a table number and when it’s time to begin everyone goes to their first assigned table. Here you chat with your partner for five minutes in English then switch for five more minutes in Spanish. During this time pizza or other snacks are passed around for munching. Then it’s time to switch!
Spanglish events are always held in super hip bars in some of the coolest barrios in Buenos Aires. Last week we went to Klan Bar in Recoleta, right across from the cemetery. This is a well known area for upscale bars and restaurants with a fun vibe. Afterwards people usually go to another bar with their new friends!
At Spanglish I started with a girl who is studying to become an English teacher. She was about 20 years old and just so sweet! She has been studying for about two years and when I asked how long the program is, she told me that it takes about 10 years!! 10 YEARS! Wow, I couldn’t believe it. What a commitment! It didn’t seem to faze her though. As an American, I feel like we are all so eager to finish our studies as quickly as possible, hopefully having a degree by 22 or 23. But, in Argentina it doesn’t always work that way. They have other obstacles to endure, but they still hold their education as the highest of their priorities. This young woman was extremely dedicated and by going to Spanglish she is able to have one-on-one interaction with native English speakers. This is surely one of the few opportunities that she has to speak with natives, so it has become a vital part of her ‘studies’. By going to Spanglish you are not only improving your Spanish, but also helping the locals with their careers, which in turn may help them improve their social and economic status. All in all, it’s a win-win.
One suggestion that I would make is to bring some topics for discussion. Telling five to ten different people the exact same things about yourself will get dull really quick. Think of some interesting questions and conversation starters before heading over. Some ideas could include: dating culture in Argentina, food, best restaurants, best boliches (off the tourist radar), ideas for traveling in Argentina, ask about favorite vacations or an interesting fact about the person. We all know that people love to talk about themselves, so think of something you would like to know about the porteño sitting in front of you (no matter how random) and ask. They can be a great resource for some insight into the city and the Argentine lifestyle.
Don’t miss the chance to immerse yourself into the bilingual community in Buenos Aires!  Whether you’re studying abroad or doing one of Mente’s many internships you will benefit from a night with Spanglish!

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Mente on Malbec: un blog de-vino

July 18, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
miami-wine-tasting

Budding wine connoisseurs of all (legal) ages start from the jumping off point of that well known adage, drink and be merry. Argentina has increasingly been getting more attention for its wine production, both in quantity and quality over the past years. This is why tourists, wine lovers, and the wine interested have started flocking to its thriving Capital, to take wine and sommelier courses in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, some of us have yet to get the chance to learn all about the world of wines, and so until we can enroll in a class of our own, we will have to start with the basics and work our way up:

According to Wine for Dummies, an admittedly guilty position i have taken, Argentina is the largest producer of wines in South America and 5th largest in the world. And what comes out of the country is even more impressive. Like the immigration history of the Argentine population, most of the grape-producing vines have come over from Italy and taken and impressive strong root in the wine-making country of Argentina. Provinces such as Mendoza, Salta, and Jujuy are the pride of argentine wines and have attracted many visits by travelers and study abroad students in Argentina! Both the wine culture and the landscape there is beautiful and calming: Being near the mountains but still in a desert area keeps the vineyards warm by day and cool by night, and the ground is dry by nearby rivers from the Andes allow for easy irrigation.

Compared to its neighboring competitor Chile, what really sets Argentine wines apart is its main grape: Malbec. The Malbec grape was originally only used for blending with Merlots and Tannat to make them darker and more full bodied; it is now a celebrated varietal wine (meaning a wine made only from one grape) in Argentina. It has particularly adapted to the Mendoza region and winemakers are toying with getting the same quality. Another great argentine wine is their Cabernet Sauvignon, but many wine professionals agree that sheer production of the argentine Malbec, and it’s rareness as a quality variety has defined argentine wines.

A little info on the Malbec: The Malbec grape is only successfully produced in Argentina and Cahors, a small wine region in southwest france. Originally from Bordeaux, many theories trace its origin, one (popular but unconfirmed) says that a Hungarian peasant by the name Malbec spread the variety throughout France, others trace it back to northern Burgundy under the original name Côt. In Argentina, Malbec wines have been thriving for over 100 years.

Certain qualities jump out with Malbec wine. It is a very full bodied wine, very dark and with a strong concentration of flavors. The skin varies based on climate; in cooler conditions it produces a thick skin that raises acidity and tannins making it a more robust wine, and lower altitudes that have hotter climates lends to a thinner skin grape, more juice and lighter-bodied wines that are meant to be drunk young.

The flavors that often jump out are those of

Dark fruits:

  • Plums
  • Cherries
  • Raspberries
  • Currants

Spices: come from the liberal oaking process

  • Vanilla
  • Anise or licorice
  • Tobacco

It can be difficult to get to know a specific type of wine, or to find a wine you love! If you’re looking for a reasonably priced Argentine wine, this blogger’s wine recommendation would have to be a bottle of the Latitud 33 Malbec which can be found all over Buenos Aires But, as all classes, teachers, wine lovers and professionals will tell you, the only way to get to know a wine is to taste it! So in that spirit, read all you like, but you study abroad students know that one of the best ways to meet Argentina is to reap the fruits of its bounty, err… something like that. For those of you on your way to Argentina, tell us what you think and know about the Malbec in a comment! And for those mente study abroad students in Buenos Aires, whether or not you’re on our Wine Program, use this information to brush up before our upcoming wine tasting next week which you’ll hear more about in an email! Los requisitos son que ¡disfruten y que hablen castellano durante toda la degustación! Below are some handy wine terms in spanish so you can impress the group with your conocimientos del vino. ¡Que rico!

aterciopelado: used to describe older wines that have lost its roughness through tanins and has given it a smooth, pleasant flavor

abierto: used to describe a wine that has a clear color that allows much light to pass through

(vino) blanco: white wine

bodega: winery and wine cellar

botella: bottle

brillante: a characteristic of young wines that give them a strong shine and a clean or fresh taste/look

cata: wine course or professional tasting where the group examines the characteristics of the wine via look (vista), smell (olfato) and taste (gusto)

(vino) común: used to describe a wine that has no varietal specification

cubierto: used to describe a wine that has a dark, opaque color that doesnt allow light to pass through

cuerpo: body of the wine, describing the fullness or lightness of the wine when tasted.

decantar: decant. Gradually pour the wine from the bottle to another container to separate the liquid from the sediments at the bottom and expose the wine to air to bring out the flavors

degustación: wine tasting

enología: enology, the science and study of wine-making

fermentación: fermentation, the process that transforms must into wine by changing the sugars into alcohol

hollejo: skin of the grapes

lágrimas: literally translated as tears, in English wine terms known as the legs of the wine. When the wine is swirled in the glass, the legs refer to the droplets that slide down the side of the glass. The fuller bodied the wine, the longer it takes the droplets to descend. Often said in wine tastings, “this wine as great legs!” which unfortunately is not as sexy sounding when describing las lágrimas.

ligero: light, used to describe a wine that has a weak body, lack of flavor

maceración: softening/soaking, process of keeping the skins of the grapes in the must to give the wine stronger color and aroma

madura/maduración: mature. used to describe a developed wine/process of allowing the grapes to reach their optimal moment of growth

(vino de) mesa: table wine used to accompany foods, lower in quality and price

mosto: must, the juice from the grapes before it goes through the fermentation process

notas (de…): notes of or hints of, used to describe the tastes, usually subtler, found in the wine

paladar: the palate of the mouth, where most flavors of the wine hit.

postgusto: also known as retrogusto, it is used to describe the taste that lingers in the mouth after drinking a wine

redondo: said to describe a full bodied wine

(vino) rosado: a rosé wine, pink in color, made of red wine grapes but less red and with a different flavor because the skins are taken out before the fermentation process

sabroso: a taste defined by the variety of flavors and characteristics that make a smooth and tasty wine

tánico: used to describe a wine with a flavor defined by a high level of tannins

taninos: tanins, which exist in grape skins, sedes, stems, and even the barrels used to age the wine. Drawing the tannins out it dependent on the winemaking process involved. Tannins are marked by astringency (think of that sense of dryness or almost grittiness lets on the tongue) and bitterness. It is often maintained that tannins get less noticeable with age.

(vino) tinto: red wine

trasiego: a process of moving the wine around to decant and oxygenize it.

uva: grape

varietal: varietal, used to describe a wine made out of one particular variety of grape

vino: wine

viñedo: vineyard

vid: grape vine

vinicultura: viniculture, wine production and wine growing

vinificación: everything related to the wine making process

Rachel Sherman

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Mente’s mente on Mate – the magical drink

June 03, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
mate

In a city like Buenos Aires that really never sleeps, one starts to wonder what keeps the porteño motor running all day long? When studying abroad in Argentina, you have to learn the ways to wake and KEEP you up: stay sharp for your spanish classes, fit in with your porteño classmates and coworkers at your universities and interships in Buenos Aires, and still have time to drink in this city.  One of their secrets is found in the world of Mate (ma-tay), a traditional and tastey south american drink, if you can handle it. Mente Argentina gives you some basics on Buenos Aires culture, beverage, and how you can take it all in, through a nifty little straw!

  • What is it?: Mate, which is actually the name of the gourd that is used to drink out of, is a sort of tea, made of dried, chopped, and ground leaves called yerba. Although mate can can be bought in a tea bag form (called mate cocido), it is hardly the same drink. Mate can be drinken alone, but it is very much associated with the mate culture that shapes argentina. You will probably see it passed around as much in the streets and parks as you do in your argentine universities and interships in Buenos Aires!
  • Mate has three essential parts to it. the mate- the gourd/cup used to hold the drink, the yerba- the tea that you pour into the mate, and the bombilla- the metal or sometimes straw, slotted straw that is used to sip.
  • What does it taste like?: if you havent had mate before you may be in for a surprise. But, while studying abroad in Buenos Aires, mate is an experience you won’t be able to miss. It can be very strong and bitter, and carries an earthy taste. Many have to get accustomed to mate
  • How do you drink it? Every region (and really every mate drinker) has their own specific method of preparing mate, but the basics for argentina are almost always the same:
  1. before using any mate, you have to cure it. Curing a mate is meant to get a better taste out of the drink as well as assured that the mate will last longer. If your mate is made out of a gourd, generally the first step is to wet the inside and try to remove the loose gourd particles. Then, whether your mate is wood or gourd, the key to curing is pouring yerba in the mate, adding hot water, and letting it sit for 24 hours. The mate will then absorb the water getting ride of any other tastes that will taint its future use. Then simply dump the yerba, clean out the mate, and let it dry.
  2. fill the mate about 3/4 of the way with yerba.
  3. place your hand over the top of the mate covering the hole entirely and shake it back and fourth. This is to get rid of the extra powder or polvo so the mate doesnt taste chalky. shake the polvo off your hands and repeat this step several times. Then shake side to side to settle the yerba.
  4. Bring the mate to an angle so that the yerba is at a slant in the  cup, anthe lower the mate back to normal level.
  5. Put the bombilla in the dry mate at the lower end of the slope of the yerba at a semi/diagonal angle so that its ends is at the deeper side of the mate resting at an angle.
  6. Add cold water almost to the top of where the yerba sits and allow the yerba to absorb the water. this protects the mate from being burnt.
  7. Now pour hot water (below boiling tempurature) in, down bombilla and sip out of the bombilla. Keep adding water without throwing out the yerba until the drink loses its flavor becoming lavado.

**Do not move the bombilla! Some mate drinkers such as uruguayan move the bombilla so that that you drink a fresher section every time it becomes lavado. However, in buenos aires this is less common. Unless the mate-drinker you’re with does, do no move the bombilla!!**

  • What is the Mate culture?: Mate is generally driken in groups, among family, friends, and in a variety of social settings. The mate is passed around, each person drinking the water out and passing the mate back to the server to refill and pass it on to others. Take out that Mente Argentine Mate you got on your first day and inaugurate it for breakfast, pass it around when hanging with other study abroad students in your apartment, dabble in the uruguayan style and even drink it on the go!
  • Why do you drink it?: Aside from mate being part of a tradition and a popular beverage here, it has a natural stimulant, similar to cafeine, called mateina. Mate is often driken here like coffee would be, in the mornings or during the afternoons to give you some extra energy. Mate is also a digestive and has several vitamines and minerals, and has been said to help lower cholestorol!

So, Mente Argentina-ers, take out that beautiful mate we gave to you oh so long ago, invite over all your friends, and follow these steps so that you too can drink your mate while studying and working abroad! You know what they say, when in Baires, do as the porteños do (do they say that?)

Rachel Sherman

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Hablá Argentino: guide to spanish slang while studying abroad Buenos Aires

May 11, 2011   MenteArgentina   1 Comment
Lunfardo

LUNFARDO Y MOD ISMOS

One thing you learn right away studying, working, interning, or living abroad in Buenos Aires is how differently Argentines and Porteños speak! Aside from the jjjjjs in their accents and the voseo form of conjugation, Porteños (or native Buenos Aires residents) also are known for their specific slang. While every country, region, and city has their own modisms and slang that you learn to pick up, we at Mente Argentina are particularly fond of the historical and playful lunfardo of Buenos Aires.

Many people know that the best way to learn spanish is to live in a spanish speaking country, and we agree! Studying abroad in Buenos Aires gives you the oportunity to take spanish classes in Argentina while applying what you learn in the classroom to what you hear on the streets. Here is a little Mente Argentina history breif as well as guide to lunfardo and common spanish slang that you are sure to hear while you are studying aboad in Buenos Aires!

Lunfardo: is said to have come to Buenos Aires at the tail end of the 19th century about the same time (and therefore deeply associated with) italian immigrants were fleeing to Argentina to look for work. Because of this, lots of lunfardo is a mixture between spanish and italian, as well as carrying  gaucho and even african origins. Lunfardo spread first through the lower classes – particularly around Buenos Aires, and later to Rosario, Argentina, and Montevideo, Uruguay – but began to enter all class levels and cross racial, social, and gender divisions, particularly because it was, and still is, used in the lyrics of Argentina´s iconic tango music. Lunfardo has now entered all sorts of speech throughout Argentina and Uruguay, but the term is synonymous of ¨speech of Buenos Aires¨.

Lunfardo, like all slang, is dynamic and shifting all the time! There is always more to learn, hear, and wonder about. Let us know about other lunfardo that you’ve heard, whether or not you know what it means! Así, vamos aprendiendo cada día. Here are some words, phrases, and terms that you can slip in to conversation with porteños to give you that authentic spice!:

a full: overworked, busy, in a rush “estoy a full con la facultad”. A lot, packed with people, “cómo fue la fiesta?” “a full che”

bárbaro: great, cool

berretta: cheap or bad quality

boludo/a: the term boludo/a can both be an insult (calling someone an idiot) and a term of endearment used among friends

  • boludez: similar to the term “bull” in english, a task that’s easy to do or something you don’t want to do
  • boludear: to joke around (“me estás boludeando”), to waste time
  • hacerse el boludo: to act like an idiot

boliche: dance club

bondi: bus, slang for “colectivo”, the more common term for bus

bronca: anger, frustration

  • Darse bronca or me da bronca: used to say that something upsets you,

buena onda: cool, can refer to a person, a place, an activity, etc.

capaz: maybe, “capaz que si”

careta: fake, from “cara” as if you have a mask on

chabón: guy

chamuyar: smooth talking, especially in romantic situations

  • chamuyero: used most often for a guy who hits on a lot of women by talking them up

charlatán: a show off/know-it-all, used similarly to chamuyero

che: used as a colloquial phrase when talking to someone, often at the beginning of a sentence. “che, ¿cómo estás?”

dale: like “ok”, but used in agreement. “¿querés ir al parque?” “¡dale!”

estar en pedo: to be really drunk, to be in trouble (used like “I’m screwed”)

fiaca: lazy

forro: condom

  • forro/a: used also as an insult, like idiot

huevos: literally means eggs, used like “balls” in English

  • me costó un huevo y medio: more slang way of saying something was expensive, similar to the English saying “it cost me an arm and a leg”

joda: a party, usually with intonation of it being wild

guita: money, used like “cash”

laburar: to work

lunfardo: the argentine/rioplatense slang. Originated from the word “outlaw” because in the late 1890s and early 1900s the language was associated with prison speak

luca: one thousand pesos, 1.000 pesos = 1 luca, 2.000 pesos = 2 lucas

mango: Money, used like “bucks” in English. 1 peso = 1 mango, 2 pesos = 2 mangos

medio: placed before adjectives to say “kind of” or “a little”. “a veces es medio difícil”

¡mira vos!: used commonly as “wow!” or literally “look at you!”

mina: woman, originated as an offensive term but now used commonly

un montón: a lot, a ton

morfar: to eat

  • morfi: food

pelotudo: idiot

pibe: a kid, child

plata: money, used like “cash”

posta: used in agreement or for enphasis, like “for real”

puede ser: could be, maybe

pucho: a cigarette

que sé yo: I don’t know, what do I know

quilombo: mess, much stronger expression than “lio” or “desastre”

re-: really, very, used as a prefix to an adjective, “estoy recontento”

subte: short for el subterraneo, which is the subway

tal cual: exactly, used in agreement to a statement

telo: a pay-by-the-hour motel

tener ganas: to be in the mood to do something, “yo tengo ganas de mirar una película”

pilas: literally means batteries but is used as energy, intention, etc.

  • con pilas: with energy or excitement“hay que hacerlo con pilas!”

tipo: guy, dude, used not to address friends, sometimes in a negative tone

  • used as description or time: tipo can also be added to the end of sentences (mostly with times or numbers) to mean “around” “¿cuando nos juntamos?” “a las 8 tipo”

trucho: fake, especially used for something counterfeit

vesre: one tendency of lunfardo is to reverse syllables in words, for instance telo is the reverse of hotel, just as vesre is just a vesre version or reves

viste: literally the you-preterite of ver, or “you saw”, but is used to say “you know?”

Rachel Sherman

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Study Abroad in Buenos Aires: Mente Argentina’s Safety Tips!

May 04, 2011   MenteArgentina   3 Comments
la-boca-caminito

Studying abroad is a challenging but incredibly rewarding experience, especially in the constant hustle bustle of Buenos Aires! Apart from making friends, going out, working with your internship, and taking new and exciting classes,you have to learn the ins and outs of this city that never sleeps. Learning to navigate yourself in any big city like Buenos Aires can be tough, with the added difficulties of traffic, people, language barriers, etc. The truth is, as far as big cities go, Buenos Aires is one of the safest cities in South America, but like all metropolises, whether you’re living or traveling abroad, its important to stay aware to stay safe. Although Buenos Aires can seem intimidating, and the porteños sure can scare you with their comments on the “dangers” of the city, if you pay attention to where you are and you know what to look for, the city becomes a whole lot friendlier.

General advice: Remember that theft is a two person interaction, and although even the most confident and calm of people can be effected, you can control a lot of the situation with your attitude. While traveling around Buenos Aires, try and keep an eye out for where you are and look like you know what you’re doing. Dont wear expensive items like watches or jewelry that draws attention to you, and keep cameras, phones, ipods, and other technology well hidden when they aren’t in use. Most importantly, try not to speak english loudly in public in general. That is the best way to flag yourself as a foreigner for pickpockets. (Plus, we are all here to improve our spanish, so what a great opportunity to practice speaking with your friends! ¡Qué bueno!)

If you ever feel unsafe, especially at night, there are certain areas in almost every neighborhood that serve as implicit protection. Walking on bigger, more populated streets is always better and gives you a sense of security which calms you down. If you feel uncomfortable, like your being followed or watched, ducking into a store or stopping at a kiosk for a little can be a good idea, because you have the protection of the workers there.

¡OJO! areas: Generally if you’re smart and look sharp, most areas in Buenos Aires can be safe at almost all hours of the day. Walking in groups is always better than walking alone, especially at night. But certain areas at nighttime should be avoided if possible.

Plazas and Parks: parks and plazas turn into implicit unwatched areas at night without the protection of people around. Try not to cut through parks or huge plazas at night, because many robberies have been reported there, where police and other neighbors aren’t there to watch out for you.

Tourist Areas (Caminito en la Boca, San Telmo fair, etc): during the day, these places, just like plazas, are bustling with people, and especially tourists. Its pretty much a guarantee that you’ll visit them at least once during your study abroad experience in Buenos Aires, and rightfully so – they’re delightful! But also be aware that any place that attracts a lot of tourists will also attract pickpockets looking for expensive things to take from travelers. Just keep an eye out on your possessions, don’t wear anything too expensive or flashy, and you should be safe and sound.

Juan B Justo: This palermo area, marked by train tracks, divides palermo viejo/soho and palermo hollywood. Lots of people start their night in one palermo barrio and want to move to the other by foot, which means crossing the tracks or under the bridge. This area is also known for robberies because drunk partiers cross back and forth, carrying lots of money, and become immediate targets. If/when crossing, keep a look out for other people, and make sure to cross in groups when possible.

Consitución: This area Consitución is the next barrio over from San Telmo, a beautiful, cultural, lively old neighborhood in the city. Consitución basically starts west of 9 de Julio boarding on San Telmo, and should be avoided during the night because it has the reputation for illegal activity and robberies. The other area to be careful about is crossing during the night Avenida San Juan during the night, which cuts through the bottom half of San Telmo. The avenue runs under or right next to the highway overpass, which is dangerous, unwatched, and should be avoided after dark.

Pickpocket ploys

1. The mustard: a common trick in many big cities, mostly in plazas, one person accidentally spills something on you, mustard, ice cream, a drink, etc. Then as an apology, offers to wipe it off for you. You put down your bag, or are simply paying attention to them, while a partner of theirs steals what they can while you’re distracted. Remember, there are many variations on this trick, with soap, lotion, supposed bird droppings, spit, everything the mind can imagine. The best response when someone offers to help you clean something off is to say with a smile, “no gracias, yo lo puse allí y me gusta como está!”, or “no thanks, i actually put that there this morning and i like it just fine, thank you!” and keep on walking!

2. The couple fight: more common on the subte (subway) than anywhere else, but a couple gets into a loud fight in the middle of a crowded area. Our human instinct to watch other people’s drama kicks in and distracts us while another partner (usually a child) takes what they can. When you see this happening, just grab hold of your possessions and try not to stare too much at the fight going on (because our mothers taught us anways that its not polite to stare!).

3. The classic bump: pretty self-explanatory, someone bumps into you and as they do, stick their hands into your pocket, bag, purse, etc. Just make sure to keep your stuff close to your body in crowded areas.

Subtes y Colectivos: Subtes and Colectivos are where the most petty crime is committed. Pickpocketing is common here, so  make sure to keep all bags close to your body, wear your backpack on your front or side with your arm over it (even the porteños do this), and don’t pull out any expensive belongings. If listening to an ipod or using a phone, make sure to hide it in a safe pocket somewhere that you are always aware of it. If you have a fabric bag of some kind, people have reported getting off buses and subways with their bag slashed open and their possessions gone. Just makes sure to always keep your things near you and your eye out for pickpocket situations.

Taxis: The safest way to take a taxi is to call a radio taxi, because then the company is connected to the driver and therefore is much more secure. If you have to catch a taxi from the street, make sure to get a radio taxi as well. There are radio taxis from all different companies, and they are marked both on the side (saying radio taxi) and have a taxi light on the top of the car. Using unmarked taxis can be dangerous because you run the risk of being ripped off for the prices, and can be associated with an illegal group of some kind in the city. Our professional Mente Argentina suggestion is to never use an unmarked taxi, and call a radio taxi for the most secure ride. To make sure the taxis dont overcharge you, pay attention to where you’re driving, so they don’t drive in circles to keep the meter running.


Like we said before, aside from the petty crime like pickpocketing, Buenos Aires is very safe for such a big city! In general, staying aware, calm, and trying to blend in to the porteño way of working the city will help make Buenos Aires a safe, fun, exciting place to study abroad and live in!

Rachel Sherman

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Choripán-A savory addiction

November 08, 2010   MenteArgentina   No comments
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Hi, my name is Brian and I’m addicted to choripán.  I can remember my first choripán like it was yesterday.  I had been shopping for bombillas in La Boca and while looking out at the “splendor” of the Riachuelo I smelled something glorious.  I walked toward a barbeque pit like a zombie after fresh flesh arms extended and all.  I bought the sandwich and doused it with chimichuri and salsa criolla.  I paid the woman and thanked her.  I wanted to kiss her but she was missing a few teeth and I had a sandwich to eat.  After my first bite I had to sit down and I think I started crying, I’m not sure because time slowed down.  I knew after the third choripán that I had discovered something balefully delicious.

I now can’t control myself when I am anywhere near the bbq carts that litter the Costanera sur (see map below).   I feel like I’m missing out if I don’t try at least one.  What is choripán?  The beauty of this sandwich is its simplicity-chorizo, French bread, chimichuri, salsa criolla.  Choripán is very common in Argentina, Uruguay, & Chile.  It’s said that in the eighteenth century the Gauchos living in rural Argentina would eat chorizos in bread during celebrations.  (Gauchos are like cowboys and were common in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, & Uruguay).   There are three main types: pork, beef, and blood sausage.  These sandwiches are very common in Buenos Aires.  They’re also very inexpensive as well.  You shouldn’t pay more than eight pesos for a choripán.  If eating at a nice parilla with an elaborate selection of beef I would hold off on ordering a choripán.  There are a ton of food carts around the city that sell them and you should probably wait to order one when you’re hanging out around town (I’ve never gotten sick yet from the food carts here).

Chorizo – there are a few types available at most carnecerias:  pork (cerdo), cow (criolla), & blood sausage (morcilla)

Chimichuri –garlic, oil, vinegar, chilies, salt, oregano, pepper, thyme, laurel, onions, & parsley

Salsa criolla – a mixture of red onions, peppers (red or green), tomatoes, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, & cumin

(map of La Costanera Buenos Aires) http://maps.google.com.ar/maps?hl=es&client=safari&rls=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=costanera+buenos+aires&fb=1&gl=ar&hq=costanera&hnear=Ciudad+Autónoma+de+Buenos+Aires,+Capital+Federal&ei=d0DXTN_yIsKB8ga3xIGSCQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CAQQtgMwAA

 

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