Tag Archives: Study Abroad

Mente’s Inside Information for an Amazing Semester Abroad!

March 07, 2012   MenteArgentina   No comments
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So you’ve just signed up for a Semester abroad in Buenos Aires. Now what? Here at Mente we are experts on study abroad and we are going to share our knowledge on the must-knows, must-dos and must-sees of studying abroad in Argentina.

First off, the must-knows about going abroad. Before you leave it is important to do some research on basic things such as the climate, history, and little cultural anecdotes which will make your transition that much easier upon arrival. One such anecdote here in Buenos Aires is the use of vos and the pronunciation of ‘ll’ and ‘y’. I’m not going to lie, I studied Spanish for years before setting foot in Argentina, and I did not understand anything when I got here. What the is maawshow? (Mayo, for those you who also aren’t familiar with el castellano porteño).
In terms of Argentine history, it is interesting and extensive with periods of greatness followed by long periods of pure devastation. Argentines tend to be very strong individuals who have lived through difficult times but still maintain a positive outlook. They are some of the most generous people in the world and are always willing to help their neighbor. The difficult times here have definitely bred a strong sense of community, which is evident throughout the country.
Finally, the climate. This is super important because here in Argentina we are in the Southern Hemisphere, meaning the seasons are the exact opposite of those in the US and Europe. We have a relatively mild winter from June to September, an absolutely beautiful spring in October, November and December. Then in January and February it is HOT. Hot and humid, which is precisely the reason most porteños ditch the city and head to the beach! This scorching summer is followed by a pleasant fall with varied temperatures and scattered thunderstorms. Knowing what months (or maybe you will be staying the whole year) you will be here is vital to your packing. A friend of mine who studied abroad TWICE during undergrad said, “study abroad is all about what to pack”. It might seem trivial, but you will undoubtedly be a couple of weeks into your trip and wish you had brought that shirt, those shoes, even that jar of peanut butter that you thought would take up too much space in your suitcase. Trust me, they don’t know how to do peanut butter here. Also, you will most likely be on a budget which won’t allow for purchasing overpriced goods here in Buenos Aires, so just pack it if you even for one second think you will want it.

Must-dos. Buenos Aires is FULL of must-dos, so I’m just going to lay out some basics but I recommend doing some research and making a local friend! The very first thing you must do is learn the buses. This is going to make your life so much easier for the next 6 months. Mente provides you with a Guia-T and we recommend that you take it with your everywhere. In addition to your Guia-T learn check out Mapa2, it is a fabulous website which tells you exactly how to get from point A to point B. In your first few weeks I recommend hopping on a bus and seeing it’s route, then going home another way. Once you have been on the buses a couple of times you will be a natural and it will save you tons of money on taxi fare!
The nightlife in Buenos Aires is quite possibly the most important must-do. Especially if you are coming from the States where bars close up at 2am, you will probably be a little overwhelmed at the beginning. Here porteños don’t even get to the clubs until around 3am (which is why it’s pretty easy to get on a list for free entrance before 2:30!!). One club that cannot be missed is Club 69 at Niceto Vega on Thursday nights. This place puts on a wild drag show complete with the costumes and over-the-top dancers who even leave stage and dance among the crowds. Plan on leaving the club and being blinded by the sun coming up over Buenos Aires.
Another must-do in the city is the parks. Buenos Aires has tons of great parks to spend your Sundays afternoons in, including Bosques de Palermo (which is huge and has lots of great trails and ‘lakes’), the Reserva Ecólogica right along the coast, and several smaller parks scattered throughout the city. Each one is unique, but you always find Argentineans sipping mate passing the day away chatting with friends. On really nice days there are even bands who set up and rock all afternoon.
Finally, you must try the culinary delights of Argentina. Everyone knows that meat is king here, and it is for a very good reason. You have to try parrilla and go to an asado (with locals preferably) during your stay! One well-known restaurant parrilla, Siga La Vaca, has all you can eat parrilla, dessert and wine for about $100 pesos. Go! Really, go. Porteños also know how to do ice cream which is the perfect treat during the sweltering summers in the city. Check out Mente’s previous blog on the yummy helado in Buenos Aires.

Must-see Buenos Aires is kind of general, because everything is a must-see. Just walking through Palermo is a must-see. The Recoleta cemetery is a must-MUST-see; luckily Mente Argentina has a great tour to take you through this fascinating burial ground. Of course you have to go to a Tango show where you will feel like you have been taken back several decades to a simpler time when passion and movement ruled this city. And if you want to practice your own tango skills, sign up for Mente’s Tango program!
There are several monuments, buildings and sites that are worth seeing in Buenos Aires including La Casa Rosada, La Boca and the Women’s Bridge in Puerto Madero. Besides all of these great spots, you should also go to a Boca Juniors soccer match. It isn’t just a soccer game, it’s an experience. From buying the tickets, getting to La Bombanera (the stadium), to all of the chanting and dancing of the dedicated fans. It is an experience not to be missed during your stay.
Outside of the city limits you will find several other great areas to check out. Taking the Tren de la Costa from Olivos to Tigre is amazing, it goes right along the costa and you get a spectacular view of the city. You can hop off and on the train as you wish, so definitely make a stop in Barrancas to check out the antiques and super hip bars in the area. Just a couple of blocks away you can go right to the coast and try out kitesurfing. The next stop, San Isidro, is also worth a look. It has a great little plaza with an incredible cathedral. All-in-all it’s great way to spend a day outside of the city.

So there you have it. Some advice on the things to keep in mind while preparing for travel and while you are here in beautiful Buenos Aires.

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Mente and Spanglish: The Perfect Activity to Practice your Spanish

January 25, 2012   MenteArgentina   No comments
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A great way to practice your Spanish while studying abroad or volunteering here in Buenos Aires is to go to Spanglish!! Spanglish was designed for foreigners to practice their Spanish skills while giving porteños the opportunity to practice English. Not only is it a language exchange, but it’s also a cultural exchange. You can learn about Argentine culture from an Argentine, and also share your cultural anecdotes.
Here at Mente Argentina we believe that cultural immersion is the most important part of your trip abroad and participating in activities that facilitate this immersion will only make your experience here that much more meaningful, which is why we have added Spanglish night to our monthly activities.
How it works: people arrive and there is a 45 minute check in. This gives you the opportunity to chat with everyone and maybe grab a drink at the bar. You are given a table number and when it’s time to begin everyone goes to their first assigned table. Here you chat with your partner for five minutes in English then switch for five more minutes in Spanish. During this time pizza or other snacks are passed around for munching. Then it’s time to switch!
Spanglish events are always held in super hip bars in some of the coolest barrios in Buenos Aires. Last week we went to Klan Bar in Recoleta, right across from the cemetery. This is a well known area for upscale bars and restaurants with a fun vibe. Afterwards people usually go to another bar with their new friends!
At Spanglish I started with a girl who is studying to become an English teacher. She was about 20 years old and just so sweet! She has been studying for about two years and when I asked how long the program is, she told me that it takes about 10 years!! 10 YEARS! Wow, I couldn’t believe it. What a commitment! It didn’t seem to faze her though. As an American, I feel like we are all so eager to finish our studies as quickly as possible, hopefully having a degree by 22 or 23. But, in Argentina it doesn’t always work that way. They have other obstacles to endure, but they still hold their education as the highest of their priorities. This young woman was extremely dedicated and by going to Spanglish she is able to have one-on-one interaction with native English speakers. This is surely one of the few opportunities that she has to speak with natives, so it has become a vital part of her ‘studies’. By going to Spanglish you are not only improving your Spanish, but also helping the locals with their careers, which in turn may help them improve their social and economic status. All in all, it’s a win-win.
One suggestion that I would make is to bring some topics for discussion. Telling five to ten different people the exact same things about yourself will get dull really quick. Think of some interesting questions and conversation starters before heading over. Some ideas could include: dating culture in Argentina, food, best restaurants, best boliches (off the tourist radar), ideas for traveling in Argentina, ask about favorite vacations or an interesting fact about the person. We all know that people love to talk about themselves, so think of something you would like to know about the porteño sitting in front of you (no matter how random) and ask. They can be a great resource for some insight into the city and the Argentine lifestyle.
Don’t miss the chance to immerse yourself into the bilingual community in Buenos Aires!  Whether you’re studying abroad or doing one of Mente’s many internships you will benefit from a night with Spanglish!

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TEFL-ing in Buenos Aires, Everything You Need to Know

December 12, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
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So you are thinking about going abroad, but you haven’t figured out the best way to support yourself while adventuring the world. Getting certified in TEFL will open doors to visit, live and experience countries all over the world. You will earn a livable wage and be immersed into cultures in a way that you never could have imagined. If you love travel and adventure, getting your TEFL will allow you visit just about every continent and is an excellent investment in your travelling future.

The first thing you should know is what all this acronym business is about:

TEFL: Teaching English as a Foreign Language

ESL: English as a Second Language

EFL: English as a Foreign Language

TESOL: Teaching English to the Speakers of Other Languages

So, basically you can see that they all pretty much mean the same thing. TEFL is the most common acronym for teaching English abroad.

With a TEFL certificate you will be able to teach in numerous countries around the world, including Thailand, Korea, South America, and Spain. The requirements vary from country to country, but in general you will be considered a good candidate if you possess a TEFL certificate, are a university graduate, are a native English speaker (duh!) and either have lived abroad or have a desire to experience another culture. Some countries have a fairly relaxed system for foreigners entering and working, however others may strictly enforce work visa vs. tourist visa regulations.

Some countries, especially in Asia, will sponsor your visa, pay for your plane ticket, give you housing upon arrival AND pay you a decent living wage. Japan was once the hot spot for teaching English, however now the market is flooded. Korea, however, still actively seeks hundreds, if not thousands, of new teachers every year.

Here in Argentina you can enter on a tourist visa good for three months (this is for citizens of most countries, check http://www.argentina.gov.ar/argentina/portal/paginas.dhtml?pagina=1245 for detailed info on your country) which can be renewed either by going to Uruguay or any neighboring country, or at immigrations. Unless you work for a big, possibly corporate, language institute, you probably won’t be able to get sponsored by your employer for a work visa. There are some English institutes that do sponsor visas, however, you may have to pay for the visa (about $600) and they tend to pay about half the amount that most institutes pay (which is half the amount that you would make if you worked for yourself). Although you aren’t going to get rich teaching English in Argentina, unless you are incredibly innovative and driven, and planning to stay awhile, you will find that you make plenty of plata to support yourself.

 

Frequently Asked Questions (Answers specific to Argentina)

 

Where can I do the TEFL?
Buenos Aires! It is possible to do the TEFL in several locations, in your home country, abroad, even online; however, doing your TEFL in Buenos Aires is certainly the best option if you plan on teaching in BA. During your course you will have a chance to get to know the city, begin inquiring about jobs and make connections. With Mente you can choose to live in a shared apartment where you are sure to meet people  your own age also living in Buenos Aires or private accomodation.

Do I need to speak Spanish?
In your classes it is not necessary to speak Spanish, however knowing the basics will come in handy from time to time. On the other hand, being able to communicate in Spanish outside the classroom will make for a much more enriching cultural experience in Buenos Aires. You will be able to meet more people, have more involved conversations and simply manage the city a little better. So why not sign up for one of Mente Argentina’s intensive Spanish immersion courses to bruch up on that Spanish you learned waaay back in high school?
There is a surprising number of English speakers in the city, whether it’s their first language or not, you will almost always be able to find someone to talk to or get help from if you don’t speak very much Spanish. That being said, you are going to another country and it can be viewed as ignorant if you expect to only speak English. Plus speaking another language is fun!

How long?

As long as you want! Most schools ask for a 6 month commitment, but the reality is that if they don’t provide a work visa for you, you are not obligated legally. However, being the honest and ethic person that you are, you will give at least one month’s notice of leave to your potential employer.

How old?
You must be at least 18 years old.

What if English is NOT my native language?
It will depend on the circumstances. If it is not your native language, but you have lived extensively in an English speaking country and have a fairly neutral accent you may be able to find work. Because English isn’t your native language, you may be required to have additional qualifications, for example a Bachelor’s or Master’s degree in English or Teaching English as a Second Language. Check with individual institutes for their specific requirements.

Can I bring my partner/children?
A partner, yes. Children, probably not. If you have a partner who is also a native English speaker, s/he will probably be able to find work as well. However, the salary here is not going to be enough to support children. I know plenty of couples who come down to work and it will actually make your cost of living cheaper, i.e. sharing accommodation and food, but I would not recommend trying to raise children here on teacher wages.

Can I find a job before I leave?
It’s possible, however most companies don’t hire unless you are actually physically here for an interview. Check out craigslist to get an idea of what employers are looking for. You can always email them to get a little more information and send in your resume, but honestly you probably won’t find work until you arrive. But don’t worry, once you’re here you will have more work than you can handle! Especially if you go through Mente Argentina’s TEFL program because the school will assist you in finding local work with a good salary.

When do jobs start?
Argentina is in the Southern Hemisphere which means that their school year starts in March. Even people who are not in school or University will still follow this schedule, and so most institutes don’t hire between December and March either. The best time to start looking for a job is the end of February or beginning of March, then again in June and July when the second semester begins.

Climate?
Buenos Aires is beautiful in the spring (late September to early December) and the fall (late March to early June) and has relatively mild winters with temperatures never falling below freezing and average rainfall. The summers, on the other hand, are insoportable. In other words, unbearable. Hot and humid days followed by hot and humid sleepless nights. During the month of January the whole city seems to empty as most porteños take their vacations and head to the beach! Although it might be a tough time weatherwise, it actually might be the perfect time to do Mente Argentina’s month-long TEFL certification course because then in February when everyone is coming back from vacation and getting back into their routines you will be certified and ready to teach! Not to mention you will have public transportation down and be able to navigate yourself around the city as the people start flooding back in.

Work visa?
In Argentina you probably won’t get a work visa from the company that you work for. So keep your tourist visa current by visiting Uruguay, Brazil, Chile or wherever your heart desires and you will be good to stay in Argentina.

Working conditions?
Working conditions will vary depending on several factors. Most likely you will not be working set hours all at the same company (although some people do) so working conditions can be anything from a comfortable classroom in Palermo to a coffee shop or even at the individual’s office. The hours can be super sporadic as well, so flexibility is key. Here in Buenos Aires you might start out with a couple of classes a week averaging around 10 hours, then you will pick up other hours and after about 2 months likely have more work than you care to take on. Little by little your schedule will come together, then fall apart the next week. While there isn’t a lot of stability, there is almost always enough money.

How much will I make?
On average institutes pay their teachers between 30 and 40 pesos per hour. That is about $8-10 USD which is a livable wage here, providing you are working enough hours. In the beginning it will probably be difficult to have a schedule busy enough to support yourself, but after a couple of months you will likely be making enough to support yourself and enjoy your free time.  The wages earned teaching English, although they may be low by your standards, are actually quite good for a young adult in Argentina because the cost of living is less than the US or Europe. Don’t get me wrong, this city is not cheap, but if you can budget your money (i.e. not eating out every meal, only going out on weekends, doing free activities like going to the park) you will surly make ends meet.

Housing?
During your first month here with Mente’s TEFL program you can elect to stay in a shared apartment, a homestay or a dorm. After that craigslist will be your best friend while you are looking for a more permanent housing situation. There are plenty of shared apartments in the city and depending on the neighborhood you can expect to pay between $300-600USD for a room in a shared apartment. There are several real estate offices where you can find private studios or one bedroom furnished apartments in the city, but expect to pay a minimum of $800USD per month. And unless you’ve landed an AMAZING teaching job, your salary will unlikely support rent this expensive.

Health insurance?
Argentina has socialized healthcare, so going to the hospital in an emergency or for anything really is possible. However, going to a public hospital means an insane wait followed by less than state of the art facilities. Many people, Argentineans included, opt to pay for health insurance outside of the public realm. Private healthcare is excellent, doctors even do house calls! Plan on spending about $100 a month.

Transportation and Travel?
Transportation within the city is incredibly affordable. A ride on the subway will cost you $1.10 peso (about 25 cents) and even leaving the city to the surrounding suburbs is also very cheap. Taxi’s don’t cost too much either, with an average price of about $25 pesos or $6USD obviously depending on how far you are going. However, traveling extended distances like to Iguazu or Mendoza will cost quite a bit (check out plataforma10.com to get an idea). A bus to Iguazu is about $100USD each way.

Who will my students be?
Classes vary and depending on what type of class you prefer to give you will probably be able find what you are looking for. It seems that everyone wants to learn English in Buenos Aires, children, professionals, students, stay at home moms, just about any demographic you can think of will probably have a demand. You might give group classes at a business or private lessons to the guy who owns a local arts and crafts shop down the street. It’s nice because there is always work and it is always a little different.

What if I hate it?
You won’t! Well, I guess I can’t speak for everyone, but this is going to be the experience of a lifetime and if you have an open mind and some motivation you are sure to enjoy your time here! That being said, in the unlikely event that you don’t like the work or can’t find your niche here in Buenos Aires, you aren’t obligated to stay. You may want to try out another city or country while you are here in South America and you will be able to take your TEFL with you! All in all, you don’t have anything to lose!

 

Teaching abroad is the best way to experience a country. You will make great friends, find day to day life to be challenging, but always very exciting and get to see the culture through the lives and experiences of your students.

So if your New Year’s Resolution has anything to do with travel, culture or language, you better sign up for the TEFL now! Spending a year abroad will be one of the most exciting and memorable years of your life, so don’t wait any longer!

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Mente on the Music of Buenos Aires

October 31, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
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Buenos Aires is truly a city that never sleeps, so finding something to do is as easy as walking out your front door. It is a great city for study abroad students from all over the world because there is something for everyone, especially when it comes to music. It doesn’t matter where you are from or what you are into, you will find your niche here. In Buenos Aires you will find that you spend your days hustling to and from all those Photography or DJ classes, but at night you are free! And you will be surprised at the abundance of activities this city hast o offer. Check out Mente’s previous blog Buenos Aires Nightlife: 7 nights a week for the best bars and clubs in BA!

Creamfields—November 2011

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Creamfields, it is the electronic party of the year with locations all over Europe and Latin America. For those of you who have experienced the craziness of Creamfields, you know that it is the ’it’ place if you live for beats and bass. Buenos Aires continually draws the more guests than any other venue with more than 50,000 people every year. Luckily for us here in Argentina, Creamfields has been mixing dance beats in Buenos Aires for the last 10 years with headliners including David Guetta, Paul van Dyk, The Prodigy, Paul Oakenfold, Dubfire and many, many others.

 

In some countries Creamfields is a multiday event where you can spend the weekend camping. Here in Buenos Aires it is just a one day event, or more specifically, a one night event. It starts at 5pm and goes all night and well into the next day. DJs will be mixing all the latest tunes and their own dirty beats so don’t plan on sleeping that night! If you are in Argentina studying abroad, or perhaps doing the DJ program with Mente Argentina, this is going to be the most important concert of your stay.

Creamfields isn’t the only good electronic music that you will find here; Buenos Aires has an ever-growing underground electronic scene. Check out http://www.buenosaliens.com/ for information about upcoming shows!

Besides the huge electronic scene, there are also tons of local and internationally celebrated bands that come to rock the city in a way only possible in Latin America. Buenos Aires is a hotspot for music of all types and no matter what you are into, you will find it here. Recently the Red Hot Chili Peppers played a sold out show, next up is Interpol, The Strokes and Roger Waters. For those who love the poppy sounds, BA caters to you as well. Katy Perry, Mylie Cyrus and Madonna entertained us with their catchy tunes.

In addition to all the big names that come through Argentina, the local scene is also jam-packed with talented artists playing at a variety of great venues. So maybe it’s time to veer away from these popular artists and check out the local music scene. Argentina is famous for its tango and you can still hear it playing in the background of many restaurants, kioskos, and maybe even from your neighbor’s apartment. Its antique and tragic sounds are romantic in their own way, but if a slow, dramatic tango isn’t really your style, maybe you will enjoy the fast and always fun sounds of cumbia. Cumbia started in Colombia and quickly spread through Latin America, and Argentina is no exception. Most boliches, or clubs, play a mix of the top ten hits, reggaetone and cumbia, occasionally throwing in some rock n roll. But if live music– rock, indie, folk, and everything in between–is what you live for, this is the city for you! Cute cafes, cultural centers, nightclubs, and huge stadiums all host a variety of bands and genres from all over Argentina and the world. And if the weather is nice, you can even catch a band rocking out in the park on the weekend!

What’s up Buenos Aires (http://www.whatsupbuenosaires.com/wuba2/) posts a daily agenda of live music, as well as other cultural activities, and is an excellent resource for getting to know the music scene in BA. Also, check out http://www.vuenosairez.com/V2_1/ and http://www.latrastienda.com/  for even more ideas.

So what are you waiting for?? Get out there and enjoy every night to its fullest!

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Tours in Buenos Aires: Learning the ins and outs of the city

September 03, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
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Studying abroad in Buenos Aires is a cultural experience in itself; however, in order to get even more out of your stay here in BsAs, Mente Argentina has collaborated with some local tour guides to provide our Mente amigos with even more opportunity to immerse themselves into the fascinating porteño culture. While your Lonely Planet gives great ideas for places to go, you probably won’t find a section on the ghost of Recoleta, Rufina, or the underground tunnels used by the Jesuits to escape to Rio de la Plata. These walking tours are an excellent way to get to know the city, not just the streets and neighborhoods but also the culture and history embedded into every corner of it.

Having already visited some of the sites in Buenos Aires on my own, I know from personal experience the value of taking a guided tour. It was my third time to the Recoleta cemetery, and it started out exactly the same as every other time I had ventured to the creepy cemetery located right in the heart of stylish Recoleta. We walked through the massive entrance and were greeted by the same haunting cats that roam the cemetery day in and day out. This time though the vaults had a story. The family names encrusted on the granite monuments suddenly had more meaning. Mente Argentina’s wonderful guide gave us an idea of the types of families who bury their deceased in such classy quarters. Ironically most of the vaults are neighboring their enemy’s vault. Can you imagine being buried for eternity next to your arch nemesis?
Evita. Oh Evita. The Duarte vault is a typical, stark black granite giving it a distinct ‘modern’ look, compared to the surrounding tombs that mirror the architecture found around the city. It’s hidden in the maze of narrow, empty paths and you probably wouldn’t even know you arrived (especially if you didn’t know that Duarte is Eva Peron’s maiden name) if it wasn’t for the crowd of tourists squeezing around it trying to get a quick photo. Ask your guide about the many locations that Evita’s body was taken to in Argentina, don’t ask her about Madonna’s inaccurate portrayal of the beloved icon.
Next check out Rufina, the ghost of Recoleta. Her tomb is exceptionally beautiful with a statue of a young woman greeting her visitors. Without a guide you may stop and admire the lovely statue, but with a guide you get the full story. Our guide told us the spine-chilling story of Rufina’s death. It is especially eerie when told by an Argentinean in a calm and casual accented English.
Another great tour in Buenos Aires to take while studying abroad or volunteering is La Boca. Boca has been made famous because of the COLOR! It is just a couple of blocks, but it is completely packed with visual stimuli, which is makes this area great for photography. It is an incredibly touristy area, but worth the $1.20 peso bus ride from San Telmo. Speaking of San Telmo, this lovely barrio is also a part of the Boca tour. San Telmo is one of the most unique neighborhoods in Buenos Aires with it’s antique charm and bohemian culture. Walking down the cobblestone streets or enjoying a coffee while watching an impromptu tango couple in Plaza Dorrego will make you appreciate the simple life that was once abundant in the area.

These tours are especially helpful to do during your first week or two in Buenos Aires , because you will be exposed to several different barrios, bus routes and lifestyles within this immense city.  So before you head off to the first week of your internship or Spanish classes be sure and sign up for one (or all!!) of the terrific tours Mente Argentina offers!

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Buenos Aires Nightlife: 7 days a week and once more for good measure

August 11, 2011   MenteArgentina   2 Comments
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~ The last minute search for a place to go out in Buenos Aires can be much like putting 25 cents into a gumball machine: You know something delicious is bound to come out, and although you have a prefered flavor in mind, its really the gamble and anticipation that leads you to the game in the first place. But Mente Argentina is here to help you learn how to play those gumball odds, rig the machine so that you’re chances of getting the cherry flavor you’re looking for is a little higher. No matter the day of the week, no matter the barrio you find yourself in, BsAs has something going on, and you’re job is to find what and where that is! Like most study abroad students know, going out is half of the experience in a noctural city like Buenos Aires. So we want to remind all those study abroaders that the possibilities are infinite – midnight movies, 4 am theater performances in parks, bands and dancing, poetry slams, and parades – these are some of the activities that go on every single day and night here. The night life is more than just going out; it is a cultural experience, rich with opportunities, excitement, and an important way of understanding how travlers and porteños alike live, no matter what form that nightlife takes on.

No matter what day your internship meets, when you have spanish classes, what time your cooking or photography course takes place, there are always students, Mente-ers and non, who are ready to discover something new about the nightlife of Buenos Aires. This is one of the most beautiful things about studying abroad in Buenos Aires. We’ve gotten lots of requests for bar and club suggestions, thus here we are filling that void! Now, every study abroad student finds their favorite digs in Buenos Aires, but some fellow subjetivity has always helped us in our searches for a good night. We at Mente Argentina have decided to impart our abounding Baires wisdom, crosslisted and categorized according to any and everyone’s potential need. Read on readers! ~

Some Favorites: Mentionable Bars

  • Milión - Paraná 1048. A classier option for any night of the week, Milión has great lighting, delicious drinks, beautiful people, and a continually upbeat energy. Check out the garden in back, like Narnia after dark!
  • Le Bar – Tucumán 422. In the middle of the financial district, Le Bar is tucked around a corner full of live music and hip outfits. Three floors up is a beautiful terrace where rogue acoustic guitar players can often be spotted in the graffiti doused ambiance. Great for discovering the local music scene! Not to be missed.
  • Van Koning: Baez 325, in Las Cañitas. Finally! One of the great beer bars in Buenos Aires, get ready to try several foreign brews and others that are distant cousins of the national quilmes family. Local and imported drinks, plus, and most importantly, the dark woods and the antique feel makes the bar look like the inside of a boat. All aboard.
  • El Federal: Carlos Calvo 599. Classic San Telmo bar with porteño drinks, porteño foods, porteño style, and porteño people-watching. For a happy hour break or a mid-day snack, El Federal is casual and comfortable, making for easy drinking and dining.
  • Bar Seis: Armenia 1676. Palermo Soho is chalk full of bars, so walking around any time of the day will always lead you to some great classy bars. Bar Seis is one of those finds, mixing the warehouse feel with a comfortable classy interior. It specializes in whiskey and whiskey cocktails. The low lighting, comfortable couches, and art make it all cohesive for a casual evening with friends.
  • Gibraltar: Perú 895. Pool tables in the back, curries and asian based foods, and cheap beer by the pint, Gibraltar brings in loads of people all night. The backyard patio is perfect during the summertime and it’s friendly bartenders and patrons fill the place with laughter and conversation all times of year.
  • Jah Bar: Thames 1335. Reggae vibes, drinks, great terrace and on certain days there’s not a foreigner in sight. The music can get pretty loud so sometimes conversation can come to an impasse, but it’s a primo people-watching sight which makes up for any potential silence!
  • Carnal: Niceto Vega 5511. Right on the edge of palermo hollywood and across the street from Niceto Club, Carnal is a great place to park and have some pre-outting drink, but it somehow always seems to turn into a whole night affair. A fine mix of all types of people and some creative drink specials, but most importantly, the upstairs terrace is beautiful and always bumpin with people. If you get there early you can have dinner and stay for drinks, thus claiming yourself a table before it gets too crowded.
  • Espacio Dada: Borges 1655. A market during the day time, this warehouse bar caught my attention only because it would be chalk full of people in the US or europe, but here, depite the chic concrete walls, the art, and the disassemble-able feel to it stays pretty low key. Most surpringly, its right off the Plaza Serrano circle where most bars come to breed similiarity, but Dada offers a great little whaa? to your everyday yeah. Lots of shows that you can look up on their blog.
  • Acabar: Honduras 5733. Cool casual bar with cheap drinks, tons of bizarre games, and some classic bar food. Acabar is great to come to with a ton of friends, and a surefire way to make others. Get ready to hear lots of porteños playing local drinking games, and get even more ready to get roped into them!
  • Cilantro: Tomás de Anchorena 1122. Thrown in because it’s this authors home base, Cilantro is a great little space, and implicitly an israeli bar. Their happy hour deals are great and on wednesdays they have a “Funky Miercoles” with major discounts on creative cocktails. Nice international food options. Also, implicit parties and shows start all the time, and you will definately make friends with all the staff!

How bizzare: bars with a twist of ¿?, shaken not stirred

  • El Living: Marcelo T Alvear 1540.Total burn-out feel to it, El Living is the place to go when you’re looking to leave the night muttering “what just happened?”. Cheap drinks, couches and tables, and an entire wall plastered with a variety of TVs, high-def, black and white, portables and projectors playing live shows of “classic rock” and classic rock’s distant cousin. Stored unsuspectingly in a house in lower Recoleta, the place weaves around and seems to never end, but great for exploring!
  • La Puerta Roja: Chacbuco 733. Great classic dive-esk bar in San Telmo, lots of people, conversations, and drinks being passed around. Pool tables in the back room, great bartenders, lots of conversation with strangers, and a lively crowd. La Puerta Roja seems to be the start and finish to everyone’s night.
  • Kim y Novak: Guemes y Godoy Cruz. Another unlikely dive bar found in palermo, the place is chalk full of quirk and makes for a great counter-cheto night. Known to be gay friendly, particularly because it’s located in what used to be the red-light district of Buenos Aires. Tons of things to look at on the walls and people to chat with, Kim y Novak puts a great spin on the normal dive bar. Despite the grunge feel, drink prices are still in the palermo range, but as the night gets later the downstairs opens into an intimate dance space so feel free to get there late and stay later.
  • Frank’s Bar: Arévalo 1445. Now, i’ve never been, but this hush hush speakeasy inspired bar is invite only, so ask around until you find a friend of a friend of a sibling’s friend who once went. Located in upper Palermo Hollywood, the place is known, but getting inside is the difficult part. According to the blog Inside Buenos Aires you need to “dial a password into a faux-telephone booth which opens the secret door”. Once in, the clandestine atmosphere, in-house sex shop, high class drinks and international DJs will make it so you’ll really believe its prohibition all over again!

Clubs and discounts by day of the week:

Monday nights in Buenos Aires

  • La Bomba del Tiempo: Centro Cultural Konex, Sarmiento 3131. A live percussion show full of surprises that is sure to get you dancing! La bomba is not to be missed, and even if you’ve been once with Mente’s free cultural excursions, every monday proves to be different with this group. Check out our blog post on la Bomba for more details.
  • UNI club: Guardia Vieja 3360. After La Bomba there are several afterparties such as the one at UNI club and other spots close by, so mondays are kept exciting in the Abasto barrio.
  • Club Severino: Hipólito Yrigoyen 851. Every monday Club Severino has their popular party for those who want to start the week off right. A mix of rock, pop, hip hop, kumbia and more! Get in free until 1:30by putting yourself and your friends on the list!
  • La Cigale: 25 de Mayo 597. Every monday, La Cigale hosts live local music in their event “Los lunes están de moda”. Hidden in the financial district, La Cigale is originally a french bar that is popular with the alternative and grunge scene in Buenos Aires. The place is energizing and hip inside, and a good option to seeing other sides of the music scene in Buenos Aires.

Tuesday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Hype: Kika Club, Honduras 5339. Tuesday nights are packed with party goers in this popular Palermo boliche. Take a nice stroll from the bar-packed scene in Plaza Serrano where many foreigners get a pre-club drink or two, and then hit up club Hype. Get in free until 2:00 am by emailing your guestlist to CLUBKIKA@HOTMAIL.COM, or check out their other discounts on the Kika Club facebook page
  • +160: Bahrein, Lavalle 345. One of this author’s personal favorites, Bahrein on tuesdays is an incredible scene: the music, the place, the people, all invade your senses and insure an incredible night. The music that they call Drum n Bass seems more like a mix with Drum n Bass, Techno, and Dubstep. Get in free until 2:00 am by emails your guestlist to YO_DJR@HOTMAIL.COM and tell themat the door that you’re on the “lista de dulce julieta”, or check out their other discounts on the Bahrein Free Passes facebook page. Careful, because the line can get pretty huge, so if you want to get in for free make sure you get there with some time! Maybe check out Le Bar around the corner on Tucumán 422 for some drinks and live music before checkin out the club
  • Jobs Bar: Arenales 2932. Jobs bar is a great place to get together with friends, grab a few drinks, and play some games. Known for its pool, darts, ping pong, jenga, and other great outdated boardgames, it’s also popular because of the  Tuesday night drink specials: 3 beers for 15 pesos. Jobs is perfect for a casual night out.

Wednesday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Club Zizek: Niceto Club, Niceto Vega 5510. Niceto Club is known for its parties in Buenos Aires. Wedsneday nights, Niceto club is host to Zizek Club, which serves as a showcase  for new, upcoming, and particularly under music that is breakin into the more professional scene playing all over the city. Checking out their websites (zzkrecords.com and whatsupbuenosaires.com)  is great to get information and discounts by emailing their organizers and putting your name on the list!
  • Terrazas del Este: Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento.  This club is continually praised for it’s scene and music on saturday nights, and now its also known for its wednesday after-office party, bringin the funk back to hump day. Full of all different types of music split into separate rooms, thrown onto the terrace, The after-office starts early (around 7 pm) for dinner and drinks, and then goes late into the night. The facebook page fills you in on upcoming events, and by emailing GusReyTerrazas@hotmail.com with your guestlist, girls get in free and guys get a discount until 2:30!
  • Asia de Cuba:  Pierina Dealessi 750. A higher end club in Puerto Madero, lines get going early in the night (around 1:00 am), and it seems that everyone knows someone which gets you a free entrance. The place is higher end, and is a restaurant before it turns into a club. Great bar with really nice drink options, but the prices can be higher. check out promotions and discounts on their facebook page .

Thursday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Club Lost: Club Araoz, Araoz 2424. Club Araoz gets jam packed on thursdays with their hip hop night, that brings in all types of people. Plenty of foreigners and the hip-hop-ers of Buenos Aires get together and rock out to impressive mashups of oldschool hip hop, top 40s, classics, underground music, and reggaeton. The crowd stays here very late, and this is one of those places where it seems everyone is having a great time. It may be the music, the drinks, but either way, you cant fight the beat. Their facebook page also offers promotions and free entrances if you do a little scavenging on their wall. Make sure to keep an eye out for promoters’ names you can drop at the door.
  • Club 69: Niceto Club, Niceto Vega 5510. Like we said earlier, Niceto Club is known for its weekly parties. Thursday nights may very well be one of their biggest and best in Buenos Aires. Niceto Club turns into Club 69, a semi-gay club, most of the draw because of their popular transvestite show they have. The double level dance club is a mix of all kinds of music, mostly connected through techno mashups, but everyone lets loose when theyre here. Niceto club offers all kinds of discounts every day on their website linked above and on their facebook as well

Friday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Roxy Disco: Arcos del Sol, Avenida Casares 4000. Roxy is a nice alternative to throw into the mix. For those who are lookin to jam out to some rock and roll, Roxy is the place to be. Fridays and Saturdays get started at 1:30 , but reaching late into the night, many locals flood to this Rock n Roll haven. It has the benefit of being mostly for porteños, and hardly any tourists. But be ready to dance and put talking on a hold, the music blasts relentlessly, the scene is much more casual and promises a great time that will add to your typical club experience here. Sign up for free passes and discounts here, usually free for ladies and discounted entrance for men until 1:30.
  • The Basement Club: Shamrock Bar, Rodríguez Peña 1220. Shamrock is a casual Irish pub that offers a relaxed scene and draws in a really friendly crowd that you will surely meet, chat with, buy rounds with, and enjoy getting to know! But downstairs, especially Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, the basement turns into an intimate club with cheap drinks,  live DJs, good tunes, and, most importantly, a disco ball. You could spend all night there, from the pre-drink, to the club, and the afterclub wind-down; i know i have.
  • Voodoo Motel:  Dorrego 1735. A great mix of all types of tunes, electronic, house, hip-hop, reggaeton, sometimes punk and rock, and many live performances. The place is new and a great place to check out. Free events found on their facebook page and if you sign up for their list, plus entrance is usually free until 2:00 am. Great for trying out something new!

Saturday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Terrazas del Este: Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento. One of the favored clubs in the Costanera section of the city, Terrazas del Este is always a good time on saturday nights. The place is enormous and spread across several different rooms, each playing a different genre of music, plus the outside terrace and gazebo make it an incredible club during the summer! Like all the clubs on the Costanera strip (and there are many a club over there), the only way to get there is via Taxi, and getting back can cost you if you catch a cab straight from the club, so if you’re willing to wait longer across the street you can get a better price on your way back. The facebook page fills you in on upcoming events, and by emailing GusReyTerrazas@hotmail.com with your guestlist, girls get in free and guys get a discount until 2:30!
  • Pácha: Avenida Costanera R. Obligado. Pácha is actually a chain, known from its famous location in Ibiza Spain. Everyone who has been says it’s a must see, but it can be a little more pretentious than other options. Pácha does, however, bring in a lively crowd and some great international DJs, is home to a number of bars, and is a great view with its patio and location right on the river. It opens at 1:30 on Saturdays. Look for promoters on their facebook page, and check out the website for new events coming up!
  • Crobar: Avenida Libertador 3883. Right off the palermo park, Crobar is a classic popular place. It doesnt offer much more than it promises, but what it does promise is good dance music and lots of people swaying to the tune of a Saturday, and you’re sure to stay out until the early morning. Send your guestlist to inforcrobar@yahoo.com.ar and see what kind of discounts you get for the night and check out new happenings on their facebook.
  • Fugees 99: Bolivar 1190. A san telmo after-club club, Fugees has similar jams as Lost, hip hop and rap, breakdancing, cheap drinks, but whats more important is its much more underground, and that brings an implicity VIP feel to your night. Girls are free before 1 am, but word is it doesnt really get started until much later, cerca 4:00 am. Get ready for a long night out.

Sunday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Amerika: Gascón 1040. One of the biggest gay clubs in Buenos Aires, it is popular among all people and is very “straight friendly” aka its full of all types and sexual orientations.  GREAT techno music on both dance floors that gets your feet and body moving! Thursdays and Sundays its a 50 pesos entrance that includes an open bar (4 of them to be exact) until 4 or 5 am which is very worth the price, and fridays and saturdays it hikes up to 80 pesos, so sunday is a favored choice. It opens at midnights but you’re sure to dance right into monday morning.
  • Bar One: Aldolfo Alsina 940. Now i’ve never been but the blog Gringo in Buenos Aires recommends this for your sundays. House music, 4 story big screen projecting images that are sure to trip you out and go nicely with the strobe lights, this is the place to counteract the low-key feel that Sundays have claimed to be.

Useful Sites: Great sites to guide you to exactly what you’re looking for, all day, every day

Pick Up The Fork: A favorite Baires Blog of mine, this post has GREAT bar and happy hour suggestions!

Gringo in Buenos Aires: another good expat Baires Blog, good suggestions for day/nighttime niches.

Nile Guide: not to common late night suggestions

Vuenos Airez: daily activities, promos, always up to date

Página 12 – suplemento NO: mostly live music, great for finding local bands!

Whats Up Buenos Aires: parties and live music

Festivales de Buenos Aires – Ciudad de Buenos Aires: free government activities and festivals

Rachel Sherman

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Photography in Buenos Aires

July 21, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
graffiti

Buenos Aires is truly urban in all sense of the term. An international capital with a variety of cultural capital seeping out of in every nook and cranny of the city, making this city the it destination for the artistic community. Photographers and photography students looking to dabble in photo courses flood here because of the notably distinct mix of culture found in Buenos Aires: a beautiful balance of European and Latin American culture, activists and art, conservatives and liberals, which turns the city streets into every photographer’s playground.

Street art: Buenos Aires is known to be the political graffiti capital of the world. It is impossible to walk down any street and see walls, sidewalks, dumpsters, even street signs unmarked, left colorless. But the graffiti culture here is respected as something much more than marking territory – it is also viewed as a thriving street art scene, making every saunter down the road much like a free gallery tour. It began in the 1950s mostly as a form of political expression particularly during a moment of political censorship, but at this time a more aesthetic form of graffiti began to come about. During the dictatorship, street art virtually disappeared but came back gradually in the 90s, and particularly in the year 2001 directly after the financial crises, the streets were suddenly bursting with art of all sorts. The importance of documenting this ephemeral impermanent art has been getting increasingly more attention, and the photography opportunities are endless! You’ll get to hear the full story of the street art movement on the buenos aire graffiti tour, one of  our free cultural activities for study abroad buenos aires students.

Protests: Protests, marches, demonstrations, are a common day occurrence in the city. For a student or intern in Buenos Aires interested in politics or civic action, Buenos Aires is a goldmine of public demonstrations and expression. But these protests are an incredible opportunity to document some of the more charged emotions, anger, excitement, passion, dedication. The protests make for an automatic storyline, and give photographers a chance to record the more pressing issues porteños and argentines face every day while capturing a huge section of their culture. Photographers find this public political culture the best opportunity for the budding photography student!

 

Architecture: The historic city of Buenos Aires still wears much of its history on it’s most outer layer. The architecture noticed in the buildings is a constant mix of old and new, redone or renovated, Italian, French, portugues, Latin American, decorative, functional, and everything in between. The older buildings that catch the photographers eye come from the cities beginnings and early population growth dating back often to the 1880s and early 1900s. During this time, Buenos Aires was one of the richest, most popular, fasting growing cities in the world. It still sports the original architectural design and immigration history. To see some of the iconic areas, photographers like to stroll down the streets of San Telmo or Av. Alvear, through sections of la Boca and historic preservation districts like parts of Caballito. Check out this article and video to find out more about the history. But because of this urban mix and historical overcoat the Buenos Aires wears, it catches the photography students mind and eye.

Fashion: Unlike a lot of urban centers, Buenos Aires residents and visitors alike parade through the streets in a bold pool of color, shape, and design. Down with the grey flannel suit they yell, enough with the black peacoat! All of us study abroad-ers here have had the experience at one point or another, after a long enough stay. We walk into a store, pick up an article of clothing that would never catch ones attention back home, or only would to make a joke about it, and take it to the counter to ring it up. I remember the first time vividly, looking at the store clerk and asking him what he thought, and he simply smiled and told me in soft Spanish what would loosely translate as, “honey, this is Buenos Aires, anything flies.”  Buenos Aires fashion is noticeable and shows a huge part of the city that photographers can’t ignore: the people. They sport their outfits with pride, and being such a dynamic city brings out an equally if not more dynamic look. Check out some staples that you’ll notice in street fashion from BsAs!


 

 

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Dulce de Leche: how to satisfy your sweet tooth in Argentina

July 12, 2011   MenteArgentina   2 Comments
Homemade Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche is the cure-all medication for all times of the day for all you study abroad students and travelers in Buenos Aires, and simply cannot be missed! It is hidden in your morning facturas (pastries), found in the kioscos in the middle of your alfajores, even added to your ice creams, coffees, and to be eaten by the spoonful. Those in our Mente Argentina cooking course have experienced the secret to making that delicious dulce! If your friends or family want a gift from your study abroad experience in Buenos Aires, DDL (dulce de leche) is the ultimate gift to bring on home, an authentic Argentine treat! Here is the 411 on dulce de leche, what it is, where to find it, and how it’s made:

What: Dulce de Leche is a type of caramel, a sticky and sweet Argentine specialty that seems to go in and on just about every breakfast, snack and dessert.  Pastries of all shapes and sizes, especially croissants, known as medialunas, are filled with dulce de leche. Every grocery store has at least half an aisle devoted solely to dulce de leche. Right up there with cafe and carne, dulce de leche is an Argentine essential. Spread it on bread, fruit, crepes and just about anything else you can think of!

There are different accounts of how dulce de leche was first made, but the most popular myth (according to Argentineans) seems to be that dulce de leche originated in Argentina in 1829 in Cañuelas, a city in the province of Buenos Aires. The full story can be found here, but our cliffsnotes goes as such: Nearing the end of a war, General Lavalle cane exhausted the General Manuel de Rosas campsite, and finding that Rosas was not there, he took a nap in his tent. Meanwhile, a serving woman was preparing la lechada by heating milk and sugar for the camp, and finding the enemy in the tent, ran off to tell soldiers, forgetting about la lechada cooking on the stovetop. The overcooked lechada had truned brown and jelly-like. The say a brave yet very hungry soldier tried the “ruined” batch of lechada, and as we all know, it must have been a big hit!

Where: DDL in both cookies and cream

Alfajores: Alfajores are a particular kind of argentine cookie,  another quintessential Argentine treat, as evidenced by endless array of varieties  and impassioned discussions about them. Find them in a kiosco or learn how to make them in your Argentine cooking course in Buenos Aires

The alfajor (pronounced: alfa-hor) is actually a traditional Arabic confection, still called by its original name alajú in some regions of Spain. The sweet originated in the Middle East and made its way to Spain and was finally brought to South America by Spanish colonists. The basic components of a Middle Eastern alfajor are flour, honey, almonds, sugar and spices like cinnamon and cloves.

Alfajores can be found all over the world in Spain, Argentina, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Uruguay, Mexico and southern Brazil, but recipes and styles vary widely according to country, and region. Thus, even though the Argentine alfajor originated from the Middle Eastern alfajor, the availability of ingredients and differences in traditions and flavor preferences have resulted in a very different confection.

Alfajores in Argentina begin with soft cookies of a cake-like consistency. The most simple and traditional alfajor is composed of two cookies with dulce de leche in the middle,  finished off by rolling the edges in finely shredded coconut. From there the seemingly endless variations begin.

Some alfajores are composed of 3 or 4 cookies to create a layering effect and a thicker, taller alfajor. Some are filled not only with dulce de leche, but also chocolate. Some are sprinkled with powdered sugar or dipped, bañado, in chocolate- white, milk or dark. Some alfajores are drizzled with icing, some are rolled in nuts like chopped walnuts or almonds, and some are topped or filled with a sweetened peanut butter paste called mantecol. Some have a little bit of raspberry jam inside of the top cookie, called alfajores ojitos. Some are made with chocolate cookies instead of the more traditional plain cookies which are like sugar/shortbread cookies. The astounding variety makes buying an alfajor a tough decision even at kioskos, small convenience shops where they are short on space, but never on the variety of different brands and variations of alfajores.

There is always great debate about which brand of alfajores is the best, it is often narrowed it down between  Havanna and El Cachafaz where there seems to be a current gridlock. Regardless, there is a seemingly infinite number of different brands and varieties of alfajores that each brand produces so it is impossible to say which is best. But I can say with certainty that the best way to form an opinion is to start sampling!

Helado: The dulce de leche ice cream is always a favorite. For those of you looking to kick back after your internship in Buenos Aires, the heladerías (ice cream shops) in the city such as Freddo and Volta are known to be among the best. To help you navegate the different varieties of dulce de leche helado, let Mente Argentina give you a quick break down:

  • DDL con almendras: dulce de leche ice cream with crushed almonds
  • DDL granizado: dulce de leche ice cream with chocolate bits
  • DDL con frutas secas y nueces: dulce de leche ice cream with nuts and dried fruit, my personal favorite!
  • Banana Split: Banna ice cream (made with real banana!) with Dulce de leche and chocolate bits
  • Tramontana: dulce de leche ice cream and chocolate cookie

For a full evaluation on the best place to find some icecream, check out this article from the LA Times travel section!

Dulce de Leche Professionals: When in a city where Dulce de Leche is found around every corner, it’s hard to narrow down who is truely the best, but our suggestions are La Salamandra, a dulce de leche and mozzarela cafe (delcious both seperate and together, try their mozzarella and dulce de leche desert!), and Havanna, known to have some of the best and most popular alfajores, and

How: Lastly, and maybe most importantly, if you want to make your own dulce de leche, it is simple enough if you have the time and energy! Lost of our Mente study abroad students go through the common dulce-withdrawl process, since nothing can quite replace this agentine specialty! Many people say its like making caramel, which is only partially true. Dulce de leche is made by heating sweetened milk over a stove top, and can be flavored with vanilla, cinamon (canela in spanish), chocolate, or kept as is for the original flavor.

These reciepes you can learn during your argentine culinary courses in buenos aires, while you’re here, and each cocinero has their own secret. But if you’d like to give it a try before coming to argentina, here are two different recipes, one using whole milk and one through the combination of condensed and evaporated milk, which should save you some time!

So you study abroad students, invite over your friends for a dinner party and showcase your cooking skills, pop by your local kiosco and grab some delicious snack filled with the typical dulce dessert, or hit up some local dulce de leche cafes that specialize in the dulce, because it’s not the be missed!

Caitlin McCoy

Edited: Rachel Sherman

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Study Abroad City Guide: Public Transportation in Buenos Aires

July 06, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
colectivos buenos aires

Getting around the city is an experience in and of itself. While studying abroad in Buenos Aires, you’ll find you learn just as much through your day-to-day travels as you do in your courses – spanish courses teaching you the phrases you need to navigate the city streets (“permiso” “¿bajás acá?” “¿dónde está la parada 68?), DJ courses introducing you to tunes playing from the kioskos and out of car windows,  cooking courses showing you how to make those tasty empanadas and chorizo that you smell as you saunter down the andenes (sidewalks). As many travelers know, one of the best ways to get to know a city as diverse as Buenos Aires is to meet it through the angle of the cotidano, the day-to-day, the public transit.

The city of Buenos Aires extends 202 square kilometers, divided into 48 different neighborhoods (barrios in spanish) with about 13 million people inhabiting this incredible bustling city. Being a business and trade capital of South America, the public transportation that you use to get from your mente argentina apartment or argentine homestay to your internship in the city is also used by the locals, young and old, people living in the city and out in  la provincia, tourists and travelers all year long! Here is a little Mente Argentine break down on how to get around Buenos Aires:

Subte (Subway): The Buenos Aires subway system has 6 lines, differentiated by color and number. Lines E (purple) and A(light blue) run down the southern end of the city, lines B (red) and D (green) on the northern, and the C (dark blue) and the new line H (yellow) run perpendicular and serve as connections In between lines as well. All the lines converge in the very center of the city, around Corrientes and 9 de Julio or near Plaza de Mayo where the casa rosada (president’s house) is located. As Mente Argentine study abroad participants, you will mostly be using the B and D lines that run down Corrientes and Santa Fe, going through the center of the city as well as Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano, Abasto, Once, Villa Crespo, Micro Centro, all some of the most interesting and popular neighborhoods in the city!

  • Fun Fact: The A (light blue) line is the original subway line opened in 1913 making it the first subway system in all of latin america and the southern hemisphere. The subway cars are older, made of wood and have hanging latern-style lights, the doors still open manually, and the trim on the walls in the stops are marked with different colors so that during rush hour it is easier to see when to get off. If you havent yet ridden the A line, go take a trip to Caballito or Carabobo just to get the original subte experience!

Colectivo (Bus): The bus system in Buenos Aires can seem quite complicated at first, but after a week of getting used to, it is one of the truest porteño experiences you can have! Finally memorizing one of two bus lines can be quite the accomplishment. There are over 135 working bus lines going not only through every neighborhood in the city, but also taking you to several cities in the Buenos Aires province. The bus has to be flagged down when waiting at the bus stop, and you have to tell the driver how much you want for your fare (general 1.20). Before riding the buses, or even leaving the apartment, you should always have you Guia “T” handy, a transportation savior for the student/intern in Buenos Aires. The Guia T is a booklet that shows every neighborhood and every street in Gran Buenos Aires, zoomed in for a neat map view, and divided into pages and quadrants. But the most important part of the Guia “T” is that each quadrant marks which bus lines pass through that square. When you find a bus line that works for you, you look up the streets it runs down in the back, and see where you will have to get off. It sounds complicated, but don’t worry: you will find a Guia “T“waiting for you in our Mente Argentina welcome pack and a happy Mente Argentina coordinator waiting there to explain it to you in more detail. If you happen to lose your Guia “T” they can be purchased at any newspaper stand in the city for about 10 A$R.

  • Fun Fact: The bus system used to work on commission for the bus drivers but it became a dangerously competitive system, and the buses stopped being efficient as well as safe. Drivers would choose not to stop when it wasn’t worth it for the number of passengers they could pick up, and would drive more recklessly. As a solution to these issues, it was changed into a privatized system, meaning individual bus companies own individual bus lines. Because of this, the buses only accept coins, although some are starting to use a city-wide monedero public transit card.  Remember, you should ALWAYS have coins (monedas in spanish) on you to take the bus, and bus rides usually cost abour 1.20 A$R

Trenes Urbanos (Urban Trains): The trains are used mostly by those living out in the province of Buenos Aires, only about 40 minutes to an hour away from the city. But the train is an incredibly easy and cheap way for commuters and travelers to get in an out of the city. There are also long distance trains that can take you to cities outside of the province, to great cities like Córdoba, Tucumán, Rosario and many more. There are a number of different urban trains, but they aren’t used as frequently as the busses or subway. One common trip however is the train to Tigre, a city outside of Capital Federal based on the river, that is often considered a nature escape to the porteños. You will get the train experience and a taste of tigre on our Tigre Excursion included in the program, but if that’s not enough, hop on the train from Barrio Chino (Chinatown) or Retiro for a day trip out of the city!

Extra – Taxis: Taxis in Buenos Aires, like in any big city, can be run through a recognized taxi company or not. Both locals and us here at the Mente Argentina study abroad office stress the use of company taxis, marked as Radio Taxis on the doors or taxi light on top. The Radio Taxi sign simply shows that said taxi is associated with a company that you could call and access, which makes it a safer ride. Though most taxis are painted yellow and black and say taxi on them, not all are radio taxis, and are not as safe as a bet.

  • Fun Fact: Companies and frequent travelers also use Remises which are similar to taxis but are run through a car service. They have a fixed rate and only work when prearranged so it is a very secure form of travel. When coming in to Buenos Aires to study, you will see our Remis or Taxi waiting to pick you up and take you straight to your house

It’s notable that almost everyone in the  city, rich and poor, old and young, locals and foreigners, all use the busses and subways in this city. Don’t worry if it seems difficult at first, any new system takes some getting accustomed to. But, to get a fuller experience, the public transit is something you can’t miss. Whether it’s by overhearing bizzare conversations in crowded areas, bonding with the locals while waiting in line, watching performers and musicians  (whom i endearingly call enterTRAINers) play on the subte, travel around this city is half of the study abroad Buenos Aires experience. Now that your accustomed to the public transit by ear, go ahead and give it a try by foot!

Rachel Sherman

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Mente Argentina – study abroad through music

June 22, 2011   MenteArgentina   No comments
creamfields 1

The Buenos Aires music scene has been exploding for the past couple of years. Particularly known for it’s cumbia and Electronic scene, artists from Buenos Aires are consistently getting more international recognition, and the music scenes, both the underground (called under in spanish) independent scene as well as the mainstream music spreading across the globe. Participants of our Mente Argentina DJ program have been able to experience both these scenes, and have told us of the importance in the crosssection between the two. This brand of fusion has been hitting the urban beats scene, allowing cumbia and electronic to mix, meddle, meld, and mingle into a new form of dub-cumbia or cumbia-electronica. This music can be found in bars, boliches, live music venues, and across the city, so while you’re here on your study abroad in Buenos Aires, Argentina, dont miss out on this music that’s sweeping the city.

Cumbia music started in Colombia on the west coast, and is deeply rooted in folkloric rythems and dances from the carribean and african origens. Cumbia has spread all aross latin america and with each move it takes on different adaptations, different forms. Cumbia Argentina integrates tango, chamamé, and flamenco  rythems. Recently, cumbia villera, a subgenre of cumbia argentina, has taken precedence in the cumbia scene. Originating in las villas miseria (impoverished neighborhoods), it was popularized by Pablo Lescano and his group Damas Gratis. Still associated with grittier, lower class street music, Cumbia was most popular in 2o00 and 2001 during the argentine economic crisis, played in local dance clubs.

Electronic Music in Buenos Aires is hard to trace. Hundreds of clubs, plenty of festivals, one of which is Creamfields, one of the most important electronic music festivals in the world with more than 100 artists, DJs, producers, and groups. Electronic music is popular in the urban street scene and boliches (argentine dance clubs)

A popular argentine record lable company called ZZK Records has been a growing source of production for this digital, local, cumbia, and mostly FUSION music. Thier group Zizek Club serves as a showcase  for new, upcoming, and particularly under music that is breakin into the more professional scene playing all over the city. Checking out their websites (zzkrecords.com and whatsupbuenosaires.com)  is great to get information and discounts by emailing their organizers and putting your name on the list! So after you get off working your internship in buenos aires, when you pass your spanish exams, after class with your friends from you argentine universities, celebrate by checking out the other half of the study abroad argentina experience through the local music scene!

Rachel Sherman

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