Tag Archives: travel

Mente and Spanglish: The Perfect Activity to Practice your Spanish

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A great way to practice your Spanish while studying abroad or volunteering here in Buenos Aires is to go to Spanglish!! Spanglish was designed for foreigners to practice their Spanish skills while giving porteños the opportunity to practice English. Not only is it a language exchange, but it’s also a cultural exchange. You can learn about Argentine culture from an Argentine, and also share your cultural anecdotes.
Here at Mente Argentina we believe that cultural immersion is the most important part of your trip abroad and participating in activities that facilitate this immersion will only make your experience here that much more meaningful, which is why we have added Spanglish night to our monthly activities.
How it works: people arrive and there is a 45 minute check in. This gives you the opportunity to chat with everyone and maybe grab a drink at the bar. You are given a table number and when it’s time to begin everyone goes to their first assigned table. Here you chat with your partner for five minutes in English then switch for five more minutes in Spanish. During this time pizza or other snacks are passed around for munching. Then it’s time to switch!
Spanglish events are always held in super hip bars in some of the coolest barrios in Buenos Aires. Last week we went to Klan Bar in Recoleta, right across from the cemetery. This is a well known area for upscale bars and restaurants with a fun vibe. Afterwards people usually go to another bar with their new friends!
At Spanglish I started with a girl who is studying to become an English teacher. She was about 20 years old and just so sweet! She has been studying for about two years and when I asked how long the program is, she told me that it takes about 10 years!! 10 YEARS! Wow, I couldn’t believe it. What a commitment! It didn’t seem to faze her though. As an American, I feel like we are all so eager to finish our studies as quickly as possible, hopefully having a degree by 22 or 23. But, in Argentina it doesn’t always work that way. They have other obstacles to endure, but they still hold their education as the highest of their priorities. This young woman was extremely dedicated and by going to Spanglish she is able to have one-on-one interaction with native English speakers. This is surely one of the few opportunities that she has to speak with natives, so it has become a vital part of her ‘studies’. By going to Spanglish you are not only improving your Spanish, but also helping the locals with their careers, which in turn may help them improve their social and economic status. All in all, it’s a win-win.
One suggestion that I would make is to bring some topics for discussion. Telling five to ten different people the exact same things about yourself will get dull really quick. Think of some interesting questions and conversation starters before heading over. Some ideas could include: dating culture in Argentina, food, best restaurants, best boliches (off the tourist radar), ideas for traveling in Argentina, ask about favorite vacations or an interesting fact about the person. We all know that people love to talk about themselves, so think of something you would like to know about the porteño sitting in front of you (no matter how random) and ask. They can be a great resource for some insight into the city and the Argentine lifestyle.
Don’t miss the chance to immerse yourself into the bilingual community in Buenos Aires!  Whether you’re studying abroad or doing one of Mente’s many internships you will benefit from a night with Spanglish!

TEFL-ing in Buenos Aires, Everything You Need to Know

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So you are thinking about going abroad, but you haven’t figured out the best way to support yourself while adventuring the world. Getting certified in TEFL will open doors to visit, live and experience countries all over the world. You will earn a livable wage and be immersed into cultures in a way that you never could have imagined. If you love travel and adventure, getting your TEFL will allow you visit just about every continent and is an excellent investment in your travelling future.

The first thing you should know is what all this acronym business is about:

TEFL: Teaching English as a Foreign Language

ESL: English as a Second Language

EFL: English as a Foreign Language

TESOL: Teaching English to the Speakers of Other Languages

So, basically you can see that they all pretty much mean the same thing. TEFL is the most common acronym for teaching English abroad.

With a TEFL certificate you will be able to teach in numerous countries around the world, including Thailand, Korea, South America, and Spain. The requirements vary from country to country, but in general you will be considered a good candidate if you possess a TEFL certificate, are a university graduate, are a native English speaker (duh!) and either have lived abroad or have a desire to experience another culture. Some countries have a fairly relaxed system for foreigners entering and working, however others may strictly enforce work visa vs. tourist visa regulations.

Some countries, especially in Asia, will sponsor your visa, pay for your plane ticket, give you housing upon arrival AND pay you a decent living wage. Japan was once the hot spot for teaching English, however now the market is flooded. Korea, however, still actively seeks hundreds, if not thousands, of new teachers every year.

Here in Argentina you can enter on a tourist visa good for three months (this is for citizens of most countries, check http://www.argentina.gov.ar/argentina/portal/paginas.dhtml?pagina=1245 for detailed info on your country) which can be renewed either by going to Uruguay or any neighboring country, or at immigrations. Unless you work for a big, possibly corporate, language institute, you probably won’t be able to get sponsored by your employer for a work visa. There are some English institutes that do sponsor visas, however, you may have to pay for the visa (about $600) and they tend to pay about half the amount that most institutes pay (which is half the amount that you would make if you worked for yourself). Although you aren’t going to get rich teaching English in Argentina, unless you are incredibly innovative and driven, and planning to stay awhile, you will find that you make plenty of plata to support yourself.

 

Frequently Asked Questions (Answers specific to Argentina)

 

Where can I do the TEFL?
Buenos Aires! It is possible to do the TEFL in several locations, in your home country, abroad, even online; however, doing your TEFL in Buenos Aires is certainly the best option if you plan on teaching in BA. During your course you will have a chance to get to know the city, begin inquiring about jobs and make connections. With Mente you can choose to live in a shared apartment where you are sure to meet people  your own age also living in Buenos Aires or private accomodation.

Do I need to speak Spanish?
In your classes it is not necessary to speak Spanish, however knowing the basics will come in handy from time to time. On the other hand, being able to communicate in Spanish outside the classroom will make for a much more enriching cultural experience in Buenos Aires. You will be able to meet more people, have more involved conversations and simply manage the city a little better. So why not sign up for one of Mente Argentina’s intensive Spanish immersion courses to bruch up on that Spanish you learned waaay back in high school?
There is a surprising number of English speakers in the city, whether it’s their first language or not, you will almost always be able to find someone to talk to or get help from if you don’t speak very much Spanish. That being said, you are going to another country and it can be viewed as ignorant if you expect to only speak English. Plus speaking another language is fun!

How long?

As long as you want! Most schools ask for a 6 month commitment, but the reality is that if they don’t provide a work visa for you, you are not obligated legally. However, being the honest and ethic person that you are, you will give at least one month’s notice of leave to your potential employer.

How old?
You must be at least 18 years old.

What if English is NOT my native language?
It will depend on the circumstances. If it is not your native language, but you have lived extensively in an English speaking country and have a fairly neutral accent you may be able to find work. Because English isn’t your native language, you may be required to have additional qualifications, for example a Bachelor’s or Master’s degree in English or Teaching English as a Second Language. Check with individual institutes for their specific requirements.

Can I bring my partner/children?
A partner, yes. Children, probably not. If you have a partner who is also a native English speaker, s/he will probably be able to find work as well. However, the salary here is not going to be enough to support children. I know plenty of couples who come down to work and it will actually make your cost of living cheaper, i.e. sharing accommodation and food, but I would not recommend trying to raise children here on teacher wages.

Can I find a job before I leave?
It’s possible, however most companies don’t hire unless you are actually physically here for an interview. Check out craigslist to get an idea of what employers are looking for. You can always email them to get a little more information and send in your resume, but honestly you probably won’t find work until you arrive. But don’t worry, once you’re here you will have more work than you can handle! Especially if you go through Mente Argentina’s TEFL program because the school will assist you in finding local work with a good salary.

When do jobs start?
Argentina is in the Southern Hemisphere which means that their school year starts in March. Even people who are not in school or University will still follow this schedule, and so most institutes don’t hire between December and March either. The best time to start looking for a job is the end of February or beginning of March, then again in June and July when the second semester begins.

Climate?
Buenos Aires is beautiful in the spring (late September to early December) and the fall (late March to early June) and has relatively mild winters with temperatures never falling below freezing and average rainfall. The summers, on the other hand, are insoportable. In other words, unbearable. Hot and humid days followed by hot and humid sleepless nights. During the month of January the whole city seems to empty as most porteños take their vacations and head to the beach! Although it might be a tough time weatherwise, it actually might be the perfect time to do Mente Argentina’s month-long TEFL certification course because then in February when everyone is coming back from vacation and getting back into their routines you will be certified and ready to teach! Not to mention you will have public transportation down and be able to navigate yourself around the city as the people start flooding back in.

Work visa?
In Argentina you probably won’t get a work visa from the company that you work for. So keep your tourist visa current by visiting Uruguay, Brazil, Chile or wherever your heart desires and you will be good to stay in Argentina.

Working conditions?
Working conditions will vary depending on several factors. Most likely you will not be working set hours all at the same company (although some people do) so working conditions can be anything from a comfortable classroom in Palermo to a coffee shop or even at the individual’s office. The hours can be super sporadic as well, so flexibility is key. Here in Buenos Aires you might start out with a couple of classes a week averaging around 10 hours, then you will pick up other hours and after about 2 months likely have more work than you care to take on. Little by little your schedule will come together, then fall apart the next week. While there isn’t a lot of stability, there is almost always enough money.

How much will I make?
On average institutes pay their teachers between 30 and 40 pesos per hour. That is about $8-10 USD which is a livable wage here, providing you are working enough hours. In the beginning it will probably be difficult to have a schedule busy enough to support yourself, but after a couple of months you will likely be making enough to support yourself and enjoy your free time.  The wages earned teaching English, although they may be low by your standards, are actually quite good for a young adult in Argentina because the cost of living is less than the US or Europe. Don’t get me wrong, this city is not cheap, but if you can budget your money (i.e. not eating out every meal, only going out on weekends, doing free activities like going to the park) you will surly make ends meet.

Housing?
During your first month here with Mente’s TEFL program you can elect to stay in a shared apartment, a homestay or a dorm. After that craigslist will be your best friend while you are looking for a more permanent housing situation. There are plenty of shared apartments in the city and depending on the neighborhood you can expect to pay between $300-600USD for a room in a shared apartment. There are several real estate offices where you can find private studios or one bedroom furnished apartments in the city, but expect to pay a minimum of $800USD per month. And unless you’ve landed an AMAZING teaching job, your salary will unlikely support rent this expensive.

Health insurance?
Argentina has socialized healthcare, so going to the hospital in an emergency or for anything really is possible. However, going to a public hospital means an insane wait followed by less than state of the art facilities. Many people, Argentineans included, opt to pay for health insurance outside of the public realm. Private healthcare is excellent, doctors even do house calls! Plan on spending about $100 a month.

Transportation and Travel?
Transportation within the city is incredibly affordable. A ride on the subway will cost you $1.10 peso (about 25 cents) and even leaving the city to the surrounding suburbs is also very cheap. Taxi’s don’t cost too much either, with an average price of about $25 pesos or $6USD obviously depending on how far you are going. However, traveling extended distances like to Iguazu or Mendoza will cost quite a bit (check out plataforma10.com to get an idea). A bus to Iguazu is about $100USD each way.

Who will my students be?
Classes vary and depending on what type of class you prefer to give you will probably be able find what you are looking for. It seems that everyone wants to learn English in Buenos Aires, children, professionals, students, stay at home moms, just about any demographic you can think of will probably have a demand. You might give group classes at a business or private lessons to the guy who owns a local arts and crafts shop down the street. It’s nice because there is always work and it is always a little different.

What if I hate it?
You won’t! Well, I guess I can’t speak for everyone, but this is going to be the experience of a lifetime and if you have an open mind and some motivation you are sure to enjoy your time here! That being said, in the unlikely event that you don’t like the work or can’t find your niche here in Buenos Aires, you aren’t obligated to stay. You may want to try out another city or country while you are here in South America and you will be able to take your TEFL with you! All in all, you don’t have anything to lose!

 

Teaching abroad is the best way to experience a country. You will make great friends, find day to day life to be challenging, but always very exciting and get to see the culture through the lives and experiences of your students.

So if your New Year’s Resolution has anything to do with travel, culture or language, you better sign up for the TEFL now! Spending a year abroad will be one of the most exciting and memorable years of your life, so don’t wait any longer!

Buenos Aires Nightlife: 7 days a week and once more for good measure

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~ The last minute search for a place to go out in Buenos Aires can be much like putting 25 cents into a gumball machine: You know something delicious is bound to come out, and although you have a prefered flavor in mind, its really the gamble and anticipation that leads you to the game in the first place. But Mente Argentina is here to help you learn how to play those gumball odds, rig the machine so that you’re chances of getting the cherry flavor you’re looking for is a little higher. No matter the day of the week, no matter the barrio you find yourself in, BsAs has something going on, and you’re job is to find what and where that is! Like most study abroad students know, going out is half of the experience in a noctural city like Buenos Aires. So we want to remind all those study abroaders that the possibilities are infinite – midnight movies, 4 am theater performances in parks, bands and dancing, poetry slams, and parades – these are some of the activities that go on every single day and night here. The night life is more than just going out; it is a cultural experience, rich with opportunities, excitement, and an important way of understanding how travlers and porteños alike live, no matter what form that nightlife takes on.

No matter what day your internship meets, when you have spanish classes, what time your cooking or photography course takes place, there are always students, Mente-ers and non, who are ready to discover something new about the nightlife of Buenos Aires. This is one of the most beautiful things about studying abroad in Buenos Aires. We’ve gotten lots of requests for bar and club suggestions, thus here we are filling that void! Now, every study abroad student finds their favorite digs in Buenos Aires, but some fellow subjetivity has always helped us in our searches for a good night. We at Mente Argentina have decided to impart our abounding Baires wisdom, crosslisted and categorized according to any and everyone’s potential need. Read on readers! ~

Some Favorites: Mentionable Bars

  • Milión - Paraná 1048. A classier option for any night of the week, Milión has great lighting, delicious drinks, beautiful people, and a continually upbeat energy. Check out the garden in back, like Narnia after dark!
  • Le BarTucumán 422. In the middle of the financial district, Le Bar is tucked around a corner full of live music and hip outfits. Three floors up is a beautiful terrace where rogue acoustic guitar players can often be spotted in the graffiti doused ambiance. Great for discovering the local music scene! Not to be missed.
  • Van Koning: Baez 325, in Las Cañitas. Finally! One of the great beer bars in Buenos Aires, get ready to try several foreign brews and others that are distant cousins of the national quilmes family. Local and imported drinks, plus, and most importantly, the dark woods and the antique feel makes the bar look like the inside of a boat. All aboard.
  • El Federal: Carlos Calvo 599. Classic San Telmo bar with porteño drinks, porteño foods, porteño style, and porteño people-watching. For a happy hour break or a mid-day snack, El Federal is casual and comfortable, making for easy drinking and dining.
  • Bar Seis: Armenia 1676. Palermo Soho is chalk full of bars, so walking around any time of the day will always lead you to some great classy bars. Bar Seis is one of those finds, mixing the warehouse feel with a comfortable classy interior. It specializes in whiskey and whiskey cocktails. The low lighting, comfortable couches, and art make it all cohesive for a casual evening with friends.
  • Gibraltar: Perú 895. Pool tables in the back, curries and asian based foods, and cheap beer by the pint, Gibraltar brings in loads of people all night. The backyard patio is perfect during the summertime and it’s friendly bartenders and patrons fill the place with laughter and conversation all times of year.
  • Jah Bar: Thames 1335. Reggae vibes, drinks, great terrace and on certain days there’s not a foreigner in sight. The music can get pretty loud so sometimes conversation can come to an impasse, but it’s a primo people-watching sight which makes up for any potential silence!
  • Carnal: Niceto Vega 5511. Right on the edge of palermo hollywood and across the street from Niceto Club, Carnal is a great place to park and have some pre-outting drink, but it somehow always seems to turn into a whole night affair. A fine mix of all types of people and some creative drink specials, but most importantly, the upstairs terrace is beautiful and always bumpin with people. If you get there early you can have dinner and stay for drinks, thus claiming yourself a table before it gets too crowded.
  • Espacio Dada: Borges 1655. A market during the day time, this warehouse bar caught my attention only because it would be chalk full of people in the US or europe, but here, depite the chic concrete walls, the art, and the disassemble-able feel to it stays pretty low key. Most surpringly, its right off the Plaza Serrano circle where most bars come to breed similiarity, but Dada offers a great little whaa? to your everyday yeah. Lots of shows that you can look up on their blog.
  • Acabar: Honduras 5733. Cool casual bar with cheap drinks, tons of bizarre games, and some classic bar food. Acabar is great to come to with a ton of friends, and a surefire way to make others. Get ready to hear lots of porteños playing local drinking games, and get even more ready to get roped into them!
  • Cilantro: Tomás de Anchorena 1122. Thrown in because it’s this authors home base, Cilantro is a great little space, and implicitly an israeli bar. Their happy hour deals are great and on wednesdays they have a “Funky Miercoles” with major discounts on creative cocktails. Nice international food options. Also, implicit parties and shows start all the time, and you will definately make friends with all the staff!

How bizzare: bars with a twist of ¿?, shaken not stirred

  • El Living: Marcelo T Alvear 1540.Total burn-out feel to it, El Living is the place to go when you’re looking to leave the night muttering “what just happened?”. Cheap drinks, couches and tables, and an entire wall plastered with a variety of TVs, high-def, black and white, portables and projectors playing live shows of “classic rock” and classic rock’s distant cousin. Stored unsuspectingly in a house in lower Recoleta, the place weaves around and seems to never end, but great for exploring!
  • La Puerta Roja: Chacbuco 733. Great classic dive-esk bar in San Telmo, lots of people, conversations, and drinks being passed around. Pool tables in the back room, great bartenders, lots of conversation with strangers, and a lively crowd. La Puerta Roja seems to be the start and finish to everyone’s night.
  • Kim y Novak: Guemes y Godoy Cruz. Another unlikely dive bar found in palermo, the place is chalk full of quirk and makes for a great counter-cheto night. Known to be gay friendly, particularly because it’s located in what used to be the red-light district of Buenos Aires. Tons of things to look at on the walls and people to chat with, Kim y Novak puts a great spin on the normal dive bar. Despite the grunge feel, drink prices are still in the palermo range, but as the night gets later the downstairs opens into an intimate dance space so feel free to get there late and stay later.
  • Frank’s Bar: Arévalo 1445. Now, i’ve never been, but this hush hush speakeasy inspired bar is invite only, so ask around until you find a friend of a friend of a sibling’s friend who once went. Located in upper Palermo Hollywood, the place is known, but getting inside is the difficult part. According to the blog Inside Buenos Aires you need to “dial a password into a faux-telephone booth which opens the secret door”. Once in, the clandestine atmosphere, in-house sex shop, high class drinks and international DJs will make it so you’ll really believe its prohibition all over again!

Clubs and discounts by day of the week:

Monday nights in Buenos Aires

  • La Bomba del Tiempo: Centro Cultural Konex, Sarmiento 3131. A live percussion show full of surprises that is sure to get you dancing! La bomba is not to be missed, and even if you’ve been once with Mente’s free cultural excursions, every monday proves to be different with this group. Check out our blog post on la Bomba for more details.
  • UNI club: Guardia Vieja 3360. After La Bomba there are several afterparties such as the one at UNI club and other spots close by, so mondays are kept exciting in the Abasto barrio.
  • Club Severino: Hipólito Yrigoyen 851. Every monday Club Severino has their popular party for those who want to start the week off right. A mix of rock, pop, hip hop, kumbia and more! Get in free until 1:30by putting yourself and your friends on the list!
  • La Cigale: 25 de Mayo 597. Every monday, La Cigale hosts live local music in their event “Los lunes están de moda”. Hidden in the financial district, La Cigale is originally a french bar that is popular with the alternative and grunge scene in Buenos Aires. The place is energizing and hip inside, and a good option to seeing other sides of the music scene in Buenos Aires.

Tuesday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Hype: Kika Club, Honduras 5339. Tuesday nights are packed with party goers in this popular Palermo boliche. Take a nice stroll from the bar-packed scene in Plaza Serrano where many foreigners get a pre-club drink or two, and then hit up club Hype. Get in free until 2:00 am by emailing your guestlist to CLUBKIKA@HOTMAIL.COM, or check out their other discounts on the Kika Club facebook page
  • +160: Bahrein, Lavalle 345. One of this author’s personal favorites, Bahrein on tuesdays is an incredible scene: the music, the place, the people, all invade your senses and insure an incredible night. The music that they call Drum n Bass seems more like a mix with Drum n Bass, Techno, and Dubstep. Get in free until 2:00 am by emails your guestlist to YO_DJR@HOTMAIL.COM and tell themat the door that you’re on the “lista de dulce julieta”, or check out their other discounts on the Bahrein Free Passes facebook page. Careful, because the line can get pretty huge, so if you want to get in for free make sure you get there with some time! Maybe check out Le Bar around the corner on Tucumán 422 for some drinks and live music before checkin out the club
  • Jobs Bar: Arenales 2932. Jobs bar is a great place to get together with friends, grab a few drinks, and play some games. Known for its pool, darts, ping pong, jenga, and other great outdated boardgames, it’s also popular because of the  Tuesday night drink specials: 3 beers for 15 pesos. Jobs is perfect for a casual night out.

Wednesday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Club Zizek: Niceto Club, Niceto Vega 5510. Niceto Club is known for its parties in Buenos Aires. Wedsneday nights, Niceto club is host to Zizek Club, which serves as a showcase  for new, upcoming, and particularly under music that is breakin into the more professional scene playing all over the city. Checking out their websites (zzkrecords.com and whatsupbuenosaires.com)  is great to get information and discounts by emailing their organizers and putting your name on the list!
  • Terrazas del Este: Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento.  This club is continually praised for it’s scene and music on saturday nights, and now its also known for its wednesday after-office party, bringin the funk back to hump day. Full of all different types of music split into separate rooms, thrown onto the terrace, The after-office starts early (around 7 pm) for dinner and drinks, and then goes late into the night. The facebook page fills you in on upcoming events, and by emailing GusReyTerrazas@hotmail.com with your guestlist, girls get in free and guys get a discount until 2:30!
  • Asia de Cuba:  Pierina Dealessi 750. A higher end club in Puerto Madero, lines get going early in the night (around 1:00 am), and it seems that everyone knows someone which gets you a free entrance. The place is higher end, and is a restaurant before it turns into a club. Great bar with really nice drink options, but the prices can be higher. check out promotions and discounts on their facebook page .

Thursday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Club Lost: Club Araoz, Araoz 2424. Club Araoz gets jam packed on thursdays with their hip hop night, that brings in all types of people. Plenty of foreigners and the hip-hop-ers of Buenos Aires get together and rock out to impressive mashups of oldschool hip hop, top 40s, classics, underground music, and reggaeton. The crowd stays here very late, and this is one of those places where it seems everyone is having a great time. It may be the music, the drinks, but either way, you cant fight the beat. Their facebook page also offers promotions and free entrances if you do a little scavenging on their wall. Make sure to keep an eye out for promoters’ names you can drop at the door.
  • Club 69: Niceto Club, Niceto Vega 5510. Like we said earlier, Niceto Club is known for its weekly parties. Thursday nights may very well be one of their biggest and best in Buenos Aires. Niceto Club turns into Club 69, a semi-gay club, most of the draw because of their popular transvestite show they have. The double level dance club is a mix of all kinds of music, mostly connected through techno mashups, but everyone lets loose when theyre here. Niceto club offers all kinds of discounts every day on their website linked above and on their facebook as well

Friday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Roxy Disco: Arcos del Sol, Avenida Casares 4000. Roxy is a nice alternative to throw into the mix. For those who are lookin to jam out to some rock and roll, Roxy is the place to be. Fridays and Saturdays get started at 1:30 , but reaching late into the night, many locals flood to this Rock n Roll haven. It has the benefit of being mostly for porteños, and hardly any tourists. But be ready to dance and put talking on a hold, the music blasts relentlessly, the scene is much more casual and promises a great time that will add to your typical club experience here. Sign up for free passes and discounts here, usually free for ladies and discounted entrance for men until 1:30.
  • The Basement Club: Shamrock Bar, Rodríguez Peña 1220. Shamrock is a casual Irish pub that offers a relaxed scene and draws in a really friendly crowd that you will surely meet, chat with, buy rounds with, and enjoy getting to know! But downstairs, especially Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, the basement turns into an intimate club with cheap drinks,  live DJs, good tunes, and, most importantly, a disco ball. You could spend all night there, from the pre-drink, to the club, and the afterclub wind-down; i know i have.
  • Voodoo Motel:  Dorrego 1735. A great mix of all types of tunes, electronic, house, hip-hop, reggaeton, sometimes punk and rock, and many live performances. The place is new and a great place to check out. Free events found on their facebook page and if you sign up for their list, plus entrance is usually free until 2:00 am. Great for trying out something new!

Saturday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Terrazas del Este: Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento. One of the favored clubs in the Costanera section of the city, Terrazas del Este is always a good time on saturday nights. The place is enormous and spread across several different rooms, each playing a different genre of music, plus the outside terrace and gazebo make it an incredible club during the summer! Like all the clubs on the Costanera strip (and there are many a club over there), the only way to get there is via Taxi, and getting back can cost you if you catch a cab straight from the club, so if you’re willing to wait longer across the street you can get a better price on your way back. The facebook page fills you in on upcoming events, and by emailing GusReyTerrazas@hotmail.com with your guestlist, girls get in free and guys get a discount until 2:30!
  • Pácha: Avenida Costanera R. Obligado. Pácha is actually a chain, known from its famous location in Ibiza Spain. Everyone who has been says it’s a must see, but it can be a little more pretentious than other options. Pácha does, however, bring in a lively crowd and some great international DJs, is home to a number of bars, and is a great view with its patio and location right on the river. It opens at 1:30 on Saturdays. Look for promoters on their facebook page, and check out the website for new events coming up!
  • Crobar: Avenida Libertador 3883. Right off the palermo park, Crobar is a classic popular place. It doesnt offer much more than it promises, but what it does promise is good dance music and lots of people swaying to the tune of a Saturday, and you’re sure to stay out until the early morning. Send your guestlist to inforcrobar@yahoo.com.ar and see what kind of discounts you get for the night and check out new happenings on their facebook.
  • Fugees 99: Bolivar 1190. A san telmo after-club club, Fugees has similar jams as Lost, hip hop and rap, breakdancing, cheap drinks, but whats more important is its much more underground, and that brings an implicity VIP feel to your night. Girls are free before 1 am, but word is it doesnt really get started until much later, cerca 4:00 am. Get ready for a long night out.

Sunday nights in Buenos Aires

  • Amerika: Gascón 1040. One of the biggest gay clubs in Buenos Aires, it is popular among all people and is very “straight friendly” aka its full of all types and sexual orientations.  GREAT techno music on both dance floors that gets your feet and body moving! Thursdays and Sundays its a 50 pesos entrance that includes an open bar (4 of them to be exact) until 4 or 5 am which is very worth the price, and fridays and saturdays it hikes up to 80 pesos, so sunday is a favored choice. It opens at midnights but you’re sure to dance right into monday morning.
  • Bar One: Aldolfo Alsina 940. Now i’ve never been but the blog Gringo in Buenos Aires recommends this for your sundays. House music, 4 story big screen projecting images that are sure to trip you out and go nicely with the strobe lights, this is the place to counteract the low-key feel that Sundays have claimed to be.

Useful Sites: Great sites to guide you to exactly what you’re looking for, all day, every day

Pick Up The Fork: A favorite Baires Blog of mine, this post has GREAT bar and happy hour suggestions!

Gringo in Buenos Aires: another good expat Baires Blog, good suggestions for day/nighttime niches.

Nile Guide: not to common late night suggestions

Vuenos Airez: daily activities, promos, always up to date

Página 12 – suplemento NO: mostly live music, great for finding local bands!

Whats Up Buenos Aires: parties and live music

Festivales de Buenos Aires – Ciudad de Buenos Aires: free government activities and festivals

Rachel Sherman

Dulce de Leche: how to satisfy your sweet tooth in Argentina

Homemade Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche is the cure-all medication for all times of the day for all you study abroad students and travelers in Buenos Aires, and simply cannot be missed! It is hidden in your morning facturas (pastries), found in the kioscos in the middle of your alfajores, even added to your ice creams, coffees, and to be eaten by the spoonful. Those in our Mente Argentina cooking course have experienced the secret to making that delicious dulce! If your friends or family want a gift from your study abroad experience in Buenos Aires, DDL (dulce de leche) is the ultimate gift to bring on home, an authentic Argentine treat! Here is the 411 on dulce de leche, what it is, where to find it, and how it’s made:

What: Dulce de Leche is a type of caramel, a sticky and sweet Argentine specialty that seems to go in and on just about every breakfast, snack and dessert.  Pastries of all shapes and sizes, especially croissants, known as medialunas, are filled with dulce de leche. Every grocery store has at least half an aisle devoted solely to dulce de leche. Right up there with cafe and carne, dulce de leche is an Argentine essential. Spread it on bread, fruit, crepes and just about anything else you can think of!

There are different accounts of how dulce de leche was first made, but the most popular myth (according to Argentineans) seems to be that dulce de leche originated in Argentina in 1829 in Cañuelas, a city in the province of Buenos Aires. The full story can be found here, but our cliffsnotes goes as such: Nearing the end of a war, General Lavalle cane exhausted the General Manuel de Rosas campsite, and finding that Rosas was not there, he took a nap in his tent. Meanwhile, a serving woman was preparing la lechada by heating milk and sugar for the camp, and finding the enemy in the tent, ran off to tell soldiers, forgetting about la lechada cooking on the stovetop. The overcooked lechada had truned brown and jelly-like. The say a brave yet very hungry soldier tried the “ruined” batch of lechada, and as we all know, it must have been a big hit!

Where: DDL in both cookies and cream

Alfajores: Alfajores are a particular kind of argentine cookie,  another quintessential Argentine treat, as evidenced by endless array of varieties  and impassioned discussions about them. Find them in a kiosco or learn how to make them in your Argentine cooking course in Buenos Aires

The alfajor (pronounced: alfa-hor) is actually a traditional Arabic confection, still called by its original name alajú in some regions of Spain. The sweet originated in the Middle East and made its way to Spain and was finally brought to South America by Spanish colonists. The basic components of a Middle Eastern alfajor are flour, honey, almonds, sugar and spices like cinnamon and cloves.

Alfajores can be found all over the world in Spain, Argentina, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Uruguay, Mexico and southern Brazil, but recipes and styles vary widely according to country, and region. Thus, even though the Argentine alfajor originated from the Middle Eastern alfajor, the availability of ingredients and differences in traditions and flavor preferences have resulted in a very different confection.

Alfajores in Argentina begin with soft cookies of a cake-like consistency. The most simple and traditional alfajor is composed of two cookies with dulce de leche in the middle,  finished off by rolling the edges in finely shredded coconut. From there the seemingly endless variations begin.

Some alfajores are composed of 3 or 4 cookies to create a layering effect and a thicker, taller alfajor. Some are filled not only with dulce de leche, but also chocolate. Some are sprinkled with powdered sugar or dipped, bañado, in chocolate- white, milk or dark. Some alfajores are drizzled with icing, some are rolled in nuts like chopped walnuts or almonds, and some are topped or filled with a sweetened peanut butter paste called mantecol. Some have a little bit of raspberry jam inside of the top cookie, called alfajores ojitos. Some are made with chocolate cookies instead of the more traditional plain cookies which are like sugar/shortbread cookies. The astounding variety makes buying an alfajor a tough decision even at kioskos, small convenience shops where they are short on space, but never on the variety of different brands and variations of alfajores.

There is always great debate about which brand of alfajores is the best, it is often narrowed it down between  Havanna and El Cachafaz where there seems to be a current gridlock. Regardless, there is a seemingly infinite number of different brands and varieties of alfajores that each brand produces so it is impossible to say which is best. But I can say with certainty that the best way to form an opinion is to start sampling!

Helado: The dulce de leche ice cream is always a favorite. For those of you looking to kick back after your internship in Buenos Aires, the heladerías (ice cream shops) in the city such as Freddo and Volta are known to be among the best. To help you navegate the different varieties of dulce de leche helado, let Mente Argentina give you a quick break down:

  • DDL con almendras: dulce de leche ice cream with crushed almonds
  • DDL granizado: dulce de leche ice cream with chocolate bits
  • DDL con frutas secas y nueces: dulce de leche ice cream with nuts and dried fruit, my personal favorite!
  • Banana Split: Banna ice cream (made with real banana!) with Dulce de leche and chocolate bits
  • Tramontana: dulce de leche ice cream and chocolate cookie

For a full evaluation on the best place to find some icecream, check out this article from the LA Times travel section!

Dulce de Leche Professionals: When in a city where Dulce de Leche is found around every corner, it’s hard to narrow down who is truely the best, but our suggestions are La Salamandra, a dulce de leche and mozzarela cafe (delcious both seperate and together, try their mozzarella and dulce de leche desert!), and Havanna, known to have some of the best and most popular alfajores, and

How: Lastly, and maybe most importantly, if you want to make your own dulce de leche, it is simple enough if you have the time and energy! Lost of our Mente study abroad students go through the common dulce-withdrawl process, since nothing can quite replace this agentine specialty! Many people say its like making caramel, which is only partially true. Dulce de leche is made by heating sweetened milk over a stove top, and can be flavored with vanilla, cinamon (canela in spanish), chocolate, or kept as is for the original flavor.

These reciepes you can learn during your argentine culinary courses in buenos aires, while you’re here, and each cocinero has their own secret. But if you’d like to give it a try before coming to argentina, here are two different recipes, one using whole milk and one through the combination of condensed and evaporated milk, which should save you some time!

So you study abroad students, invite over your friends for a dinner party and showcase your cooking skills, pop by your local kiosco and grab some delicious snack filled with the typical dulce dessert, or hit up some local dulce de leche cafes that specialize in the dulce, because it’s not the be missed!

Caitlin McCoy

Edited: Rachel Sherman

Study Abroad City Guide: Public Transportation in Buenos Aires

colectivos buenos aires

Getting around the city is an experience in and of itself. While studying abroad in Buenos Aires, you’ll find you learn just as much through your day-to-day travels as you do in your courses – spanish courses teaching you the phrases you need to navigate the city streets (“permiso” “¿bajás acá?” ¿dónde está la parada 68?), DJ courses introducing you to tunes playing from the kioskos and out of car windows,  cooking courses showing you how to make those tasty empanadas and chorizo that you smell as you saunter down the andenes (sidewalks). As many travelers know, one of the best ways to get to know a city as diverse as Buenos Aires is to meet it through the angle of the cotidano, the day-to-day, the public transit.

The city of Buenos Aires extends 202 square kilometers, divided into 48 different neighborhoods (barrios in spanish) with about 13 million people inhabiting this incredible bustling city. Being a business and trade capital of South America, the public transportation that you use to get from your mente argentina apartment or argentine homestay to your internship in the city is also used by the locals, young and old, people living in the city and out in  la provincia, tourists and travelers all year long! Here is a little Mente Argentine break down on how to get around Buenos Aires:

Subte (Subway): The Buenos Aires subway system has 6 lines, differentiated by color and number. Lines E (purple) and A(light blue) run down the southern end of the city, lines B (red) and D (green) on the northern, and the C (dark blue) and the new line H (yellow) run perpendicular and serve as connections In between lines as well. All the lines converge in the very center of the city, around Corrientes and 9 de Julio or near Plaza de Mayo where the casa rosada (president’s house) is located. As Mente Argentine study abroad participants, you will mostly be using the B and D lines that run down Corrientes and Santa Fe, going through the center of the city as well as Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano, Abasto, Once, Villa Crespo, Micro Centro, all some of the most interesting and popular neighborhoods in the city!

  • Fun Fact: The A (light blue) line is the original subway line opened in 1913 making it the first subway system in all of latin america and the southern hemisphere. The subway cars are older, made of wood and have hanging latern-style lights, the doors still open manually, and the trim on the walls in the stops are marked with different colors so that during rush hour it is easier to see when to get off. If you havent yet ridden the A line, go take a trip to Caballito or Carabobo just to get the original subte experience!

Colectivo (Bus): The bus system in Buenos Aires can seem quite complicated at first, but after a week of getting used to, it is one of the truest porteño experiences you can have! Finally memorizing one of two bus lines can be quite the accomplishment. There are over 135 working bus lines going not only through every neighborhood in the city, but also taking you to several cities in the Buenos Aires province. The bus has to be flagged down when waiting at the bus stop, and you have to tell the driver how much you want for your fare (general 1.20). Before riding the buses, or even leaving the apartment, you should always have you Guia “T” handy, a transportation savior for the student/intern in Buenos Aires. The Guia T is a booklet that shows every neighborhood and every street in Gran Buenos Aires, zoomed in for a neat map view, and divided into pages and quadrants. But the most important part of the Guia “T” is that each quadrant marks which bus lines pass through that square. When you find a bus line that works for you, you look up the streets it runs down in the back, and see where you will have to get off. It sounds complicated, but don’t worry: you will find a Guia “T“waiting for you in our Mente Argentina welcome pack and a happy Mente Argentina coordinator waiting there to explain it to you in more detail. If you happen to lose your Guia “T” they can be purchased at any newspaper stand in the city for about 10 A$R.

  • Fun Fact: The bus system used to work on commission for the bus drivers but it became a dangerously competitive system, and the buses stopped being efficient as well as safe. Drivers would choose not to stop when it wasn’t worth it for the number of passengers they could pick up, and would drive more recklessly. As a solution to these issues, it was changed into a privatized system, meaning individual bus companies own individual bus lines. Because of this, the buses only accept coins, although some are starting to use a city-wide monedero public transit card.  Remember, you should ALWAYS have coins (monedas in spanish) on you to take the bus, and bus rides usually cost abour 1.20 A$R

Trenes Urbanos (Urban Trains): The trains are used mostly by those living out in the province of Buenos Aires, only about 40 minutes to an hour away from the city. But the train is an incredibly easy and cheap way for commuters and travelers to get in an out of the city. There are also long distance trains that can take you to cities outside of the province, to great cities like Córdoba, Tucumán, Rosario and many more. There are a number of different urban trains, but they aren’t used as frequently as the busses or subway. One common trip however is the train to Tigre, a city outside of Capital Federal based on the river, that is often considered a nature escape to the porteños. You will get the train experience and a taste of tigre on our Tigre Excursion included in the program, but if that’s not enough, hop on the train from Barrio Chino (Chinatown) or Retiro for a day trip out of the city!

Extra – Taxis: Taxis in Buenos Aires, like in any big city, can be run through a recognized taxi company or not. Both locals and us here at the Mente Argentina study abroad office stress the use of company taxis, marked as Radio Taxis on the doors or taxi light on top. The Radio Taxi sign simply shows that said taxi is associated with a company that you could call and access, which makes it a safer ride. Though most taxis are painted yellow and black and say taxi on them, not all are radio taxis, and are not as safe as a bet.

  • Fun Fact: Companies and frequent travelers also use Remises which are similar to taxis but are run through a car service. They have a fixed rate and only work when prearranged so it is a very secure form of travel. When coming in to Buenos Aires to study, you will see our Remis or Taxi waiting to pick you up and take you straight to your house

It’s notable that almost everyone in the  city, rich and poor, old and young, locals and foreigners, all use the busses and subways in this city. Don’t worry if it seems difficult at first, any new system takes some getting accustomed to. But, to get a fuller experience, the public transit is something you can’t miss. Whether it’s by overhearing bizzare conversations in crowded areas, bonding with the locals while waiting in line, watching performers and musicians  (whom i endearingly call enterTRAINers) play on the subte, travel around this city is half of the study abroad Buenos Aires experience. Now that your accustomed to the public transit by ear, go ahead and give it a try by foot!

Rachel Sherman

Mente’s mente on Mate – the magical drink

mate

In a city like Buenos Aires that really never sleeps, one starts to wonder what keeps the porteño motor running all day long? When studying abroad in Argentina, you have to learn the ways to wake and KEEP you up: stay sharp for your spanish classes, fit in with your porteño classmates and coworkers at your universities and interships in Buenos Aires, and still have time to drink in this city.  One of their secrets is found in the world of Mate (ma-tay), a traditional and tastey south american drink, if you can handle it. Mente Argentina gives you some basics on Buenos Aires culture, beverage, and how you can take it all in, through a nifty little straw!

  • What is it?: Mate, which is actually the name of the gourd that is used to drink out of, is a sort of tea, made of dried, chopped, and ground leaves called yerba. Although mate can can be bought in a tea bag form (called mate cocido), it is hardly the same drink. Mate can be drinken alone, but it is very much associated with the mate culture that shapes argentina. You will probably see it passed around as much in the streets and parks as you do in your argentine universities and interships in Buenos Aires!
  • Mate has three essential parts to it. the mate- the gourd/cup used to hold the drink, the yerba- the tea that you pour into the mate, and the bombilla- the metal or sometimes straw, slotted straw that is used to sip.
  • What does it taste like?: if you havent had mate before you may be in for a surprise. But, while studying abroad in Buenos Aires, mate is an experience you won’t be able to miss. It can be very strong and bitter, and carries an earthy taste. Many have to get accustomed to mate
  • How do you drink it? Every region (and really every mate drinker) has their own specific method of preparing mate, but the basics for argentina are almost always the same:
  1. before using any mate, you have to cure it. Curing a mate is meant to get a better taste out of the drink as well as assured that the mate will last longer. If your mate is made out of a gourd, generally the first step is to wet the inside and try to remove the loose gourd particles. Then, whether your mate is wood or gourd, the key to curing is pouring yerba in the mate, adding hot water, and letting it sit for 24 hours. The mate will then absorb the water getting ride of any other tastes that will taint its future use. Then simply dump the yerba, clean out the mate, and let it dry.
  2. fill the mate about 3/4 of the way with yerba.
  3. place your hand over the top of the mate covering the hole entirely and shake it back and fourth. This is to get rid of the extra powder or polvo so the mate doesnt taste chalky. shake the polvo off your hands and repeat this step several times. Then shake side to side to settle the yerba.
  4. Bring the mate to an angle so that the yerba is at a slant in the  cup, anthe lower the mate back to normal level.
  5. Put the bombilla in the dry mate at the lower end of the slope of the yerba at a semi/diagonal angle so that its ends is at the deeper side of the mate resting at an angle.
  6. Add cold water almost to the top of where the yerba sits and allow the yerba to absorb the water. this protects the mate from being burnt.
  7. Now pour hot water (below boiling tempurature) in, down bombilla and sip out of the bombilla. Keep adding water without throwing out the yerba until the drink loses its flavor becoming lavado.

**Do not move the bombilla! Some mate drinkers such as uruguayan move the bombilla so that that you drink a fresher section every time it becomes lavado. However, in buenos aires this is less common. Unless the mate-drinker you’re with does, do no move the bombilla!!**

  • What is the Mate culture?: Mate is generally driken in groups, among family, friends, and in a variety of social settings. The mate is passed around, each person drinking the water out and passing the mate back to the server to refill and pass it on to others. Take out that Mente Argentine Mate you got on your first day and inaugurate it for breakfast, pass it around when hanging with other study abroad students in your apartment, dabble in the uruguayan style and even drink it on the go!
  • Why do you drink it?: Aside from mate being part of a tradition and a popular beverage here, it has a natural stimulant, similar to cafeine, called mateina. Mate is often driken here like coffee would be, in the mornings or during the afternoons to give you some extra energy. Mate is also a digestive and has several vitamines and minerals, and has been said to help lower cholestorol!

So, Mente Argentina-ers, take out that beautiful mate we gave to you oh so long ago, invite over all your friends, and follow these steps so that you too can drink your mate while studying and working abroad! You know what they say, when in Baires, do as the porteños do (do they say that?)

Rachel Sherman

Mente Argentina Study Abroad free cultural activities! La Bomba de Tiempo

konex

Yesterday night Mente Argentina had another great cultural outting to hear La Bomba de Tiempo play in Ciudad Cultural Konex. The band was bumpin, the crowd croonin, and the scene spectacular as always!

La Bomba de Tiempo is a group of percussionists directed by Stantiago Vazquez who mix stantard percussion sets with improvization  which makes every show a unique experience for the crowd and the band. The mixture of lighting, sound, video, dancing, and participation has made La Bomba the popular experience that it is, and an unforgettable show every time.
Aside for the show itself, part of the Bomba experience is the location. The building, originally an old oil refinary/factory, was reappropriated into a cultural center in 1992 with a ission to promote cultural expression in the community and offer an innovative, avant-garde space for artists and art lovers. It´s located in Abasto, a cultural center of Buenos Aires known for its art, tango, theater, and most of all its true barrio feel. Konex is host to a variety of rotating shows, performances, acts, all geared towards the same community building feel, which allows participants to truely feel conected to the works.

As always, we had a great time on our Mente outting! Need more proof? well check out those happy faces of our study abroad buenos aires participants! If you havent checked out La Bomba de Tiempo yet, let us know and we´ll make sure you get to experience the incredible vibe of Konex, la banda, la gente, y la buena onda en general!

Rachel Sherman

Study Abroad in Buenos Aires: Mente Argentina’s Safety Tips!

la-boca-caminito

Studying abroad is a challenging but incredibly rewarding experience, especially in the constant hustle bustle of Buenos Aires! Apart from making friends, going out, working with your internship, and taking new and exciting classes,you have to learn the ins and outs of this city that never sleeps. Learning to navigate yourself in any big city like Buenos Aires can be tough, with the added difficulties of traffic, people, language barriers, etc. The truth is, as far as big cities go, Buenos Aires is one of the safest cities in South America, but like all metropolises, whether you’re living or traveling abroad, its important to stay aware to stay safe. Although Buenos Aires can seem intimidating, and the porteños sure can scare you with their comments on the “dangers” of the city, if you pay attention to where you are and you know what to look for, the city becomes a whole lot friendlier.

General advice: Remember that theft is a two person interaction, and although even the most confident and calm of people can be effected, you can control a lot of the situation with your attitude. While traveling around Buenos Aires, try and keep an eye out for where you are and look like you know what you’re doing. Dont wear expensive items like watches or jewelry that draws attention to you, and keep cameras, phones, ipods, and other technology well hidden when they aren’t in use. Most importantly, try not to speak english loudly in public in general. That is the best way to flag yourself as a foreigner for pickpockets. (Plus, we are all here to improve our spanish, so what a great opportunity to practice speaking with your friends! ¡Qué bueno!)

If you ever feel unsafe, especially at night, there are certain areas in almost every neighborhood that serve as implicit protection. Walking on bigger, more populated streets is always better and gives you a sense of security which calms you down. If you feel uncomfortable, like your being followed or watched, ducking into a store or stopping at a kiosk for a little can be a good idea, because you have the protection of the workers there.

¡OJO! areas: Generally if you’re smart and look sharp, most areas in Buenos Aires can be safe at almost all hours of the day. Walking in groups is always better than walking alone, especially at night. But certain areas at nighttime should be avoided if possible.

Plazas and Parks: parks and plazas turn into implicit unwatched areas at night without the protection of people around. Try not to cut through parks or huge plazas at night, because many robberies have been reported there, where police and other neighbors aren’t there to watch out for you.

Tourist Areas (Caminito en la Boca, San Telmo fair, etc): during the day, these places, just like plazas, are bustling with people, and especially tourists. Its pretty much a guarantee that you’ll visit them at least once during your study abroad experience in Buenos Aires, and rightfully so – they’re delightful! But also be aware that any place that attracts a lot of tourists will also attract pickpockets looking for expensive things to take from travelers. Just keep an eye out on your possessions, don’t wear anything too expensive or flashy, and you should be safe and sound.

Juan B Justo: This palermo area, marked by train tracks, divides palermo viejo/soho and palermo hollywood. Lots of people start their night in one palermo barrio and want to move to the other by foot, which means crossing the tracks or under the bridge. This area is also known for robberies because drunk partiers cross back and forth, carrying lots of money, and become immediate targets. If/when crossing, keep a look out for other people, and make sure to cross in groups when possible.

Consitución: This area Consitución is the next barrio over from San Telmo, a beautiful, cultural, lively old neighborhood in the city. Consitución basically starts west of 9 de Julio boarding on San Telmo, and should be avoided during the night because it has the reputation for illegal activity and robberies. The other area to be careful about is crossing during the night Avenida San Juan during the night, which cuts through the bottom half of San Telmo. The avenue runs under or right next to the highway overpass, which is dangerous, unwatched, and should be avoided after dark.

Pickpocket ploys

1. The mustard: a common trick in many big cities, mostly in plazas, one person accidentally spills something on you, mustard, ice cream, a drink, etc. Then as an apology, offers to wipe it off for you. You put down your bag, or are simply paying attention to them, while a partner of theirs steals what they can while you’re distracted. Remember, there are many variations on this trick, with soap, lotion, supposed bird droppings, spit, everything the mind can imagine. The best response when someone offers to help you clean something off is to say with a smile, “no gracias, yo lo puse allí y me gusta como está!”, or “no thanks, i actually put that there this morning and i like it just fine, thank you!” and keep on walking!

2. The couple fight: more common on the subte (subway) than anywhere else, but a couple gets into a loud fight in the middle of a crowded area. Our human instinct to watch other people’s drama kicks in and distracts us while another partner (usually a child) takes what they can. When you see this happening, just grab hold of your possessions and try not to stare too much at the fight going on (because our mothers taught us anways that its not polite to stare!).

3. The classic bump: pretty self-explanatory, someone bumps into you and as they do, stick their hands into your pocket, bag, purse, etc. Just make sure to keep your stuff close to your body in crowded areas.

Subtes y Colectivos: Subtes and Colectivos are where the most petty crime is committed. Pickpocketing is common here, so  make sure to keep all bags close to your body, wear your backpack on your front or side with your arm over it (even the porteños do this), and don’t pull out any expensive belongings. If listening to an ipod or using a phone, make sure to hide it in a safe pocket somewhere that you are always aware of it. If you have a fabric bag of some kind, people have reported getting off buses and subways with their bag slashed open and their possessions gone. Just makes sure to always keep your things near you and your eye out for pickpocket situations.

Taxis: The safest way to take a taxi is to call a radio taxi, because then the company is connected to the driver and therefore is much more secure. If you have to catch a taxi from the street, make sure to get a radio taxi as well. There are radio taxis from all different companies, and they are marked both on the side (saying radio taxi) and have a taxi light on the top of the car. Using unmarked taxis can be dangerous because you run the risk of being ripped off for the prices, and can be associated with an illegal group of some kind in the city. Our professional Mente Argentina suggestion is to never use an unmarked taxi, and call a radio taxi for the most secure ride. To make sure the taxis dont overcharge you, pay attention to where you’re driving, so they don’t drive in circles to keep the meter running.


Like we said before, aside from the petty crime like pickpocketing, Buenos Aires is very safe for such a big city! In general, staying aware, calm, and trying to blend in to the porteño way of working the city will help make Buenos Aires a safe, fun, exciting place to study abroad and live in!

Rachel Sherman

Hot Holidays

Caitlin McCoy

Navidad – Christmas:

The summer heat already makes the holidays feel distinctly different and Buenos Aires celebrates Christmas with unique Argentine flourishes. This year, the holiday season began with a firework show on Sunday, December 19th. Hundreds of people gathered at the Centro Cultural de Recoleta, (a Cultural Center in the neighborhood Recoleta) on a grassy hill overlooking the city to watch the show. Similar gatherings took place all across Buenos Aires as the crowd enjoyed a stunning display of holiday fireworks. The fireworks continued on Christmas Eve when families set them off in the streets late into the night…or rather, early into the morning. Friday and Saturday night were also popular nights for bars and clubs in Buenos Aires as the unstoppable nightlife certainly wasn’t slowed down by the holidays, rather it seemed to surge because of the holidays as clubs hosted huge parties on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

Fuegos Artificiales over Recoleta

While there is still plenty of activity in the city, most porteños flee the heat to take advantage of vacation time and head over to the coast outside of Buenos Aires to the beach towns along the coastline like, Pinamar, Mar del Plata, Carilo, Villa Gessell, Mar de Las Pampas, and Ostende, just to name a few. Others venture further away to other vacation hot spots in South America like Punta del Este, Uruguay and the Brazilian  coast. Those who leave the city, but skip the beach are usually headed into various providences to spend time with family like heading north in Salta or Missiones or going south to Patagonia or Calafate where the weather is cooler.

As far as decorations go, I did not see one live evergreen Christmas tree here in Buenos Aires, but considering the season and climate, it is not surprising. However, there were plenty of artificial trees in all shapes, sizes and colors.

Scattered throughout the city in public parks and plazas, there were large Christmas trees made out of white lights and little red gift boxes hung over one of the city’s main streets, Avenida Santa Fe. Shopping centers featured giant Christmas trees and a range of decorations, including Santa and his elves. Some porteños decorated their apartment balconies with lights and store windows featured holiday displays which made window-shopping even more of an attraction than usual. Decorations that included snowflakes, snowmen and fake snow were comical in the oppressive heat- it ended up reaching 97 degrees Fahrenheit (36 degrees Celsius) on Christmas Day!

A Christmas tree along Av. Libertador

It is customary for families in Argentina to gather and enjoy a big dinner together on Christmas Eve. Many Argentine families have an asado, a traditional Argentine barbeque, and they often drink clerico which is cider or wine chilled with fruit, much like sangria. Every family has their own traditions and special dishes, but among them you will find things in common like, empanadas, milanesa, puree de papas and/or calabaza. Also present at Christmas dinners is pan dulce, which means, “sweet bread,” but is actually a type of fruitcake.

Pan Dulce with a variety of berries and nuts

Noche de Reyes – Kings’ Night:

Each family has their own traditions regarding gift giving during Christmas time, which often has to do with another holiday that is related to and celebrated close to Christmas: Noche de Reyes or Reyes Magos, Kings’ Night. According to biblical tradition, the kings that visited the newborn baby Jesus in Bethlehem did not arrive until after his birth, a day agreed upon as January 6th. They arrived with gifts for the baby: gold, frankincense, and myrrh. Many countries around the world celebrate the Kings’ visit with this holiday, including Argentina. So every year on night of January 5th, children put their shoes out before they go to bed so that the Kings will leave gifts for them. Children often also put out a little bit of hay and water for the Kings’ camels and to encourage the Kings’ generosity. Some families give gifts on Christmas or Kings’ Night and then give children small toys or candy on the other. There are a variety of songs and other traditions that are also a part of the holiday, but they vary widely from region to region and country to country.

Shoes filled with gifts the morning after Noche de Reyes

Hanukkah:

Hanukkah is celebrated widely in Argentina because of the large Jewish population, particularly in Buenos Aires. One way to celebrate is to go to a public menorah lighting hosted by Chabad-Lubavitch, which has centers all across the world. Argentina has more than 10 Chabad-Lubavich centers, at least three of which host menorah lightings. There is also a large municipal menorah in Plaza San Martin in Buenos Aires which is set up by the city government.

The menorah in Plaza San Martin

If celebrating Hanukkah in Buenos Aires, it is a great idea to visit to the city’s predominantly Jewish neighborhood, Once. It is a historic area, filled with wholesale shops, kosher restaurants and synagogues. Located right next to Once, in the neighborhood Abasto, there is the only kosher McDonald’s outside of Israel. Tucked away in the Abasto Shopping Center’s Food Court, this McDonald’s is carefully monitored by Argentinean rabbis to ensure the food is completely kosher. It serves the typical McDonald’s menu but there is no form of dairy available.

One of the many places in Buenos Aires to enjoy famous Argentine beef in a kosher way

During Hanukkah, Argentines give family small gifts, like chocolate coins, or “gelt,” but gift giving isn’t emphasized in Argentina as much as it is in the United States or other countries because the holiday is considered relatively small here.

A Novel Idea: Buenos Aires’ Most Famous Bookstore

A picture of this place is absolutely worth a thousand words and a visit will leave you speechless

Caitlin McCoy

Buenos Aires is known as one of the most important cultural centers in Latin America because of its impressive number of museums, theaters and universities. Studying abroad in Buenos Aires give you access to some of the most prestegious, historical, and cultural sights in Latin America. This year, Buenos Aires was named the “2011 World Book Capital” by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

Readers browse through books at the International Book Fair

This honor is understandable considering the incredible events in Buenos Aires year round which are dedicated to authors, books, reading and bookstores. Every year on April 23rd, the city hosts a vibrant celebration for World Book Day which often occurs around the same time as Buenos Aires’  famous, annual International Book Fair, Feria Internacional del Libro. The Feria del Libro hosts authors from all over Argentina, South America, and the world for two weeks’ worth of book and poetry readings, signings, and lectures on literature of all kinds for people of all ages.

Another literary celebration took place a couple weeks ago, when Buenos Aires celebrated the rich history of its bookstores, librerías, and their contributions to the literary and academic culture of the city. The event represented the city’s commitment to promoting books and reading, especially for children and teens.

A picture of this place is absolutely worth a thousand words and a visit will leave you speechless

Buenos Aires is home to hundreds of bookstores, but undoubtedly the most notable is El Ateneo Grand Splendid. In 2008, British periodical, The Guardian, honored El Ateneo with second place among the 10 best bookstores in the world. This bookstore boasts a remarkable history which enriches its stunning and truly unique ambiance.

Situated Barrio Norte, El Ateneo was designed by the architects Peró and Torres Armengol and originally opened as a theater, Teatro Gran Splendid, in May of 1919. The building features ceiling frescoes and ornate sculptures and carvings by renowned Italian artists and sculptors.

Beautiful art and architecture bring this bookstore a seemingly magical onda (vibe)

The theater had a seating capacity of 1,050, and staged a variety of performances, including appearances by famous tango artists like Carlos Gardel, Francisco Canaro, Roberto Firpo and Ignacio Corsini.

In the late 1920s, the theater was converted into a movie theater, and in 1929 it showed the first sound films  in Argentina.

The opulent former theater was leased by Grupo Ilhsa, who owns El Ateneo, Yenny booksellers and the El Ateneo publishing house, in February of 2000. Soon after, the theater underwent renovation and was converted into a book and music store.

Theater boxes where patrons can read and enjoy a view of the bookstore

Over a million people walk through El Ateneo Grand Splendid’s doors annually, making it the busiest bookstore in Buenos Aires. There are cozy chairs scattered throughout the store, including seats in its glamorous theater boxes. Once reserved only for the Buenos Aires elite, customers can now sit in these luxurious boxes and enjoy books before purchase. There is also a lovely café on the back of what was once the stage, which is the perfect place to grab a café con leche on a rainy day. The magnificent frescos, elaborate carvings, crimson stage curtains, auditorium lighting and architectural details that remain today preserve the rich, old world feeling of the grand theater while creating an extraordinary bookstore experience.

 

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